What did I do wrong to wreck LC pad when polishing?
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
What did I do wrong to wreck LC pad when polishing?
Using a 4" Lake Country orange CCS polishing pad with the round dimples in it.
After polishing the trunk and back of car the pad is concave on both the polishing side and hook side. The 5.5" Buff&Shine orange pad (totally flat) I was using for this job is in perfect shape.
What did I do wrong that caused the 4" pad to do this ? Or is this normal with the LC CCS pads with the dimples in them?
TIA
After polishing the trunk and back of car the pad is concave on both the polishing side and hook side. The 5.5" Buff&Shine orange pad (totally flat) I was using for this job is in perfect shape.
What did I do wrong that caused the 4" pad to do this ? Or is this normal with the LC CCS pads with the dimples in them?
TIA
#2
Auto Detailing Master
iTrader: (2)
The pad over heated causing the foam to warp. This is generally from over use without allowing the pad to cool. It can happen to any foam pad.
When I am doing heavy cutting, I will work a pad for one panel, cleaning it after each section, then switching to a new pad for the next panel. I will then grab the first pad again for the following panel and set the other one aside. This sequence allows lads to cool and rest while you're using the other pad.
In general, for an average sedan I use 4-6 pads per correction step.
-Zach
When I am doing heavy cutting, I will work a pad for one panel, cleaning it after each section, then switching to a new pad for the next panel. I will then grab the first pad again for the following panel and set the other one aside. This sequence allows lads to cool and rest while you're using the other pad.
In general, for an average sedan I use 4-6 pads per correction step.
-Zach
#3
Intermediate
Thread Starter
The pad over heated causing the foam to warp. This is generally from over use without allowing the pad to cool. It can happen to any foam pad.
When I am doing heavy cutting, I will work a pad for one panel, cleaning it after each section, then switching to a new pad for the next panel. I will then grab the first pad again for the following panel and set the other one aside. This sequence allows lads to cool and rest while you're using the other pad.
In general, for an average sedan I use 4-6 pads per correction step.
-Zach
When I am doing heavy cutting, I will work a pad for one panel, cleaning it after each section, then switching to a new pad for the next panel. I will then grab the first pad again for the following panel and set the other one aside. This sequence allows lads to cool and rest while you're using the other pad.
In general, for an average sedan I use 4-6 pads per correction step.
-Zach
How do you clean them after each section? Such that they can be used again so quickly?
I bought a cleaner tool with little rollers on it and cheese graters on the sides of it, but don't know how to use it LOL Also have a little cleaning brush that is supposed to be for cleaning pads.
Boy I'm glad I'm doing my first REAL detail on my 05' TL
Don't get me wrong I've detailed my cars before, but NEVER in my wildest dreams did I think it was so much involved.
#4
Auto Detailing Master
iTrader: (2)
When I say I clean them after each section, I am referring to "cleaning on the fly"... as you polish you build up product residue, clear coat residue, and general dirt on the paint. This reduces the effectivity of the pad. In order to keep a pad performing better for longer, you must clean the pad on the fly to reduce the amount of build up.
For foam pads, I use the Meguiar's Pad Conditioner Brush . Simpy brush the pad after each section to remove the heavier build up (you'll usually see dust coming off of the pad). You can also use a terry cloth towel to clean the pad as well... Mike Phillips demonstrates this here.
When I am using microfiber pads, I use compressed air to blow them out... but you can also use either of the previously mentioned methods as well.
When I am finished with a job, I bring all of my pads inside and clean them for real... I use all purpose cleaner and the pad brush to scrub the pads under running water to ensure I get all of the gunk off of the face and out of them before letting them air dry.
-Zach
For foam pads, I use the Meguiar's Pad Conditioner Brush . Simpy brush the pad after each section to remove the heavier build up (you'll usually see dust coming off of the pad). You can also use a terry cloth towel to clean the pad as well... Mike Phillips demonstrates this here.
When I am using microfiber pads, I use compressed air to blow them out... but you can also use either of the previously mentioned methods as well.
When I am finished with a job, I bring all of my pads inside and clean them for real... I use all purpose cleaner and the pad brush to scrub the pads under running water to ensure I get all of the gunk off of the face and out of them before letting them air dry.
-Zach
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