clear coat question
03-16-15, 05:05 AM
#1
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clear coat question
hey guys, so my 98 gs400 has a few spot on the roof where the clear coat is peeling off, the largest area is about half of a size of a penny if not smaller, my question is can just sand away the entire clear coat on the roof and reapply with a 2k clear coat to get the shine back or its not that simple? thanks in advance.
03-16-15, 05:14 AM
#2
While I am certainly not a body shop/painting expert... I do not think it is that simple.
Since your CC has been damaged/removed, I imagine the base coat beneath it is not uniform. I would assume you would need to respray the base and then the clear to provide a uniform finish after sanding.
Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in
Since your CC has been damaged/removed, I imagine the base coat beneath it is not uniform. I would assume you would need to respray the base and then the clear to provide a uniform finish after sanding.
Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in
03-16-15, 05:45 AM
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While I am certainly not a body shop/painting expert... I do not think it is that simple.
Since your CC has been damaged/removed, I imagine the base coat beneath it is not uniform. I would assume you would need to respray the base and then the clear to provide a uniform finish after sanding.
Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in
Since your CC has been damaged/removed, I imagine the base coat beneath it is not uniform. I would assume you would need to respray the base and then the clear to provide a uniform finish after sanding.
Hopefully someone with more knowledge will chime in
03-16-15, 05:48 AM
#4
Thanks for your input, the actual clear coat is close too 99% intact, someone suggested me that i should only sand the affected areas then just buff it up with a buffing compound, i can snap a few pictures in a couple hours when the sun comes up...if that would help of course.
If the clear coat is truly failed, no amount of buffing would repair the damaged area... painting is the only remedy. If it is a tiny area, you may be able to just blend the clear? Not sure at all though... again, not a painter myself.
03-16-15, 10:52 AM
#5
You will definitely need to visit a body shop asap and get their opinion, as well as a few other body shops in your area. A lot of shops have the ability to blend panels, but some are very tough to do if it's tiny sections of failed clear and especially if they're on the roof with no body lines, etc. They may be able to wetsand the entire roof and blend it at the c-pillars for an even look, but you're definitely out of the realm of detailing and polishing here. The only option in terms of detailing would be to attempt a DIY fix like sanding, polishing, applying clearcoat yourself to the affected area, then sanding and polishing again in hopes of a good result. That is very tough to do even for professionals, but as they say, we all start somewhere. You could end up with an amazing fix or a few hours of wasted time and some $$ . Best of luck with it!
Ivan @ DI
. Best of luck with it!Ivan @ DI
03-17-15, 09:05 AM
#7
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Unfortunately you can't just apply 2K clear over old paint/clear. It would make things much easier if you could but the 2K clear generally needs fresh paint to bond properly plus the old clearcoat is going to be weak if other parts are peeling and is still going to peel and craze even with fresh clear over it. The part that you sanded with no clear will also look different then the remaining areas with clearcoat.
In most cases you have to sand down the clear off the entire roof/panel, primer to be on the safe side, use a urethane based paint, and then use the 2K with a certain period of time.
I am not sure why they have not come out with a auto clearcoat by now that can be applied over older paint/clear as it would make things so much easier.
Because the parts that are peeling away on your GS are so small you may just want to sand them lightly, try to get rid of or blend the edge of where it peeled, polish to match the rest of the finish and apply a more permanent coating like Opti Coat 2.0 or something similar. I am not sure how long it will last but it will get rid of most of the ugly peeling clear spots for a little while but it won't stop further peeling of the old clear coat.
Is it peeling due to age or where was the sap/bird crap damage on those spots?
In most cases you have to sand down the clear off the entire roof/panel, primer to be on the safe side, use a urethane based paint, and then use the 2K with a certain period of time.
I am not sure why they have not come out with a auto clearcoat by now that can be applied over older paint/clear as it would make things so much easier.
Because the parts that are peeling away on your GS are so small you may just want to sand them lightly, try to get rid of or blend the edge of where it peeled, polish to match the rest of the finish and apply a more permanent coating like Opti Coat 2.0 or something similar. I am not sure how long it will last but it will get rid of most of the ugly peeling clear spots for a little while but it won't stop further peeling of the old clear coat.
Is it peeling due to age or where was the sap/bird crap damage on those spots?
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03-18-15, 01:00 AM
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Unfortunately you can't just apply 2K clear over old paint/clear. It would make things much easier if you could but the 2K clear generally needs fresh paint to bond properly plus the old clearcoat is going to be weak if other parts are peeling and is still going to peel and craze even with fresh clear over it. The part that you sanded with no clear will also look different then the remaining areas with clearcoat.
In most cases you have to sand down the clear off the entire roof/panel, primer to be on the safe side, use a urethane based paint, and then use the 2K with a certain period of time.
I am not sure why they have not come out with a auto clearcoat by now that can be applied over older paint/clear as it would make things so much easier.
Because the parts that are peeling away on your GS are so small you may just want to sand them lightly, try to get rid of or blend the edge of where it peeled, polish to match the rest of the finish and apply a more permanent coating like Opti Coat 2.0 or something similar. I am not sure how long it will last but it will get rid of most of the ugly peeling clear spots for a little while but it won't stop further peeling of the old clear coat.
Is it peeling due to age or where was the sap/bird crap damage on those spots?
In most cases you have to sand down the clear off the entire roof/panel, primer to be on the safe side, use a urethane based paint, and then use the 2K with a certain period of time.
I am not sure why they have not come out with a auto clearcoat by now that can be applied over older paint/clear as it would make things so much easier.
Because the parts that are peeling away on your GS are so small you may just want to sand them lightly, try to get rid of or blend the edge of where it peeled, polish to match the rest of the finish and apply a more permanent coating like Opti Coat 2.0 or something similar. I am not sure how long it will last but it will get rid of most of the ugly peeling clear spots for a little while but it won't stop further peeling of the old clear coat.
Is it peeling due to age or where was the sap/bird crap damage on those spots?
03-19-15, 08:52 AM
#9
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No problem. Yeah, I have read they are discontinuing Opti Coat 2.0 for some reason, I am not familiar of the product they are replacing it with but I don't think it is supposed to last as long. I have not used this product and it won't last as long as Opti Coat but you may want to look into this
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/cquar...l#.VQruUI4so5k . Zaino AIO and Z2 are good long lasting products and have UV blockers/protection but you will have to reapply Z2 a couple times a year especially if the car is parked outside, Collinite 476S is excellent and long lasting too and even easier to apply and less expensive then Zaino but you will have to apply a few times a year to ensure everything is protected especially if the car is parked outside.
03-19-15, 08:58 AM
#10
No problem. Yeah, I have read they are discontinuing Opti Coat 2.0 for some reason, I am not familiar of the product they are replacing it with but I don't think it is supposed to last as long. I have not used this product and it won't last as long as Opti Coat but you may want to look into this
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/cquar...l#.VQruUI4so5k . Zaino AIO and Z2 are good long lasting products and have UV blockers/protection but you will have to reapply Z2 a couple times a year especially if the car is parked outside, Collinite 476S is excellent and long lasting too and even easier to apply and less expensive then Zaino but you will have to apply a few times a year to ensure everything is protected especially if the car is parked outside.
http://www.autopia-carcare.com/cquar...l#.VQruUI4so5k . Zaino AIO and Z2 are good long lasting products and have UV blockers/protection but you will have to reapply Z2 a couple times a year especially if the car is parked outside, Collinite 476S is excellent and long lasting too and even easier to apply and less expensive then Zaino but you will have to apply a few times a year to ensure everything is protected especially if the car is parked outside.
There are many paint coatings that provide years of protection that are all worth considering for superior protection & ease of maintenance. CQuartz and CQuartz UK are both great alternatives.
-Zach
03-19-15, 12:31 PM
#11
I have tried both OC 2.0 and Cquartz UK both on my cars now. I like the Cquartz UK more for its better water beading/sheeting ability. I mean sheets ridiculously fast, faster than many sealants/wax or even OC2.0. I also like it is slicker and the paint is "richer/darker" than OC2.0. The car stays cleaner for longer also.
One thing I hate the most about Cquartz UK, it flashes and dries way way too fast. I messed up the application on couple panels and it is smearing/hazing on couple doors panels because it dried too fast. I am going to fix them by polishing and re-apply again. Damn it!
One thing I hate the most about Cquartz UK, it flashes and dries way way too fast. I messed up the application on couple panels and it is smearing/hazing on couple doors panels because it dried too fast. I am going to fix them by polishing and re-apply again. Damn it!
03-20-15, 05:27 PM
#12
hey guys, so my 98 gs400 has a few spot on the roof where the clear coat is peeling off, the largest area is about half of a size of a penny if not smaller, my question is can just sand away the entire clear coat on the roof and reapply with a 2k clear coat to get the shine back or its not that simple? thanks in advance.
However, I have blended many panels in the past and never had any initial problems using this method. Unfortunately it is a bandaid as the clear will eventually fail over several years.
The correct way to fix the problem as already mentioned. Sand the entire area with 600 grit, wash and spray with wax/grease remover and then spray several base coats down, followed with clear coat applications.
Don't waste time and money using any coating or sealants as a repair solution
03-29-15, 11:43 PM
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Hey guys, it's me again. So since my clear coat on my gs400 is peeling off, just sand off the clear and applying new clear coat is a no go, i tried gathering as much info as i can get, just so you know this is the first time ever working on a car's paint.
This is what i intend to do, please do correct me if am wrong:
Step 1- wash car
Step 2 - Wet sand clear coat with 1500 grid sand paper
Step 3- apply primer, let it sit for an hour, then wet sand it again with 2000 grid until surface is smooth and uniform
Step 4- apply paint and let it sit for couple hours
Step 5- apply 2-3 clear coat layers with 45 minutes interval.
Step 6- take car cor a spin...
Is it that simple or not really.!
This is what i intend to do, please do correct me if am wrong:
Step 1- wash car
Step 2 - Wet sand clear coat with 1500 grid sand paper
Step 3- apply primer, let it sit for an hour, then wet sand it again with 2000 grid until surface is smooth and uniform
Step 4- apply paint and let it sit for couple hours
Step 5- apply 2-3 clear coat layers with 45 minutes interval.
Step 6- take car cor a spin...
Is it that simple or not really.!
03-30-15, 03:29 AM
#14
Well when I get enough time I'm going to dig into this deal. What is needed to accomplish a reclear which is what was offered like 30 some plus years ago on old single stage paint, a clear coat sprayed on, maybe be a clear primer sealer is what is needed.
And what makes non etching epoxy primer bond to metal is just the sand scratches. Not all paint is chemically bonding some are only mechanical bonds so to say. The thing to do is if you THINK you need a repaint then you have nothing to loose just giving a spray over re clear to see how it works. I see no reason it wouldn't work as good or better than a coating does especially a urethane clear. Just remember on most repaints on cars its just a sand and paint deal and leaving the old paint as the primer per say, if there is a chem bond to that then for a reclear we just need the same stuff but only in a clear instead of a pigment.
I never ever settle for IT JUST CAN'T BE DONE stuff. I am an outa the box type of person.
And what makes non etching epoxy primer bond to metal is just the sand scratches. Not all paint is chemically bonding some are only mechanical bonds so to say. The thing to do is if you THINK you need a repaint then you have nothing to loose just giving a spray over re clear to see how it works. I see no reason it wouldn't work as good or better than a coating does especially a urethane clear. Just remember on most repaints on cars its just a sand and paint deal and leaving the old paint as the primer per say, if there is a chem bond to that then for a reclear we just need the same stuff but only in a clear instead of a pigment.
I never ever settle for IT JUST CAN'T BE DONE stuff. I am an outa the box type of person.
Last edited by dicer; 03-30-15 at 03:34 AM.