Professional Level Interior Detailing By a Non-Professional DIY guide :)
#16
Auto Detailing Master
iTrader: (2)
Regarding the APC, if the leather is no longer having clear protective coat which happened to my 2006 IS350 tan leather, the APC can remove the dye quickly and dry it out. I did a test section on it to find this out. When I use a dedicated cleaner such as Ultima Shampoo Gel on another section, it works out fine.
Also, APC is very basic solution with ph level of 12 or so. Even with diluting it, you would not get it back to ph balance at 7. For most interior and in the short term, you wouldn't see any problem. However, in the long term, that is another thing. I don't want to gamble it in my car and hence no APC in car leather. I use APC for floortmats, carpets, or trims that have heavy stains, and tires only for now.
Both my cars' interior are relatively very clean, no stain, no mess, hence I don't really need a heavy cleaner like APC in most of the interior.
To sum everything up, APC is a good cleaner especially tackling stain. However, the user needs to be cautious in using it. IMO, it should not be used on uncoated leather or coated leather that has failing clear coat.
Both my cars' interior are relatively very clean, no stain, no mess, hence I don't really need a heavy cleaner like APC in most of the interior.
To sum everything up, APC is a good cleaner especially tackling stain. However, the user needs to be cautious in using it. IMO, it should not be used on uncoated leather or coated leather that has failing clear coat.
#17
Yep, nicely put!
I would also add that if the owners maintain the car both interior and exterior properly on a regular basis. The car should be in good shape inside and outside that should not require any aggressive method at all. Hence, I want to add another golden rule to your detailing industry or anywhere else: "Prevention is better than cure"
I would also add that if the owners maintain the car both interior and exterior properly on a regular basis. The car should be in good shape inside and outside that should not require any aggressive method at all. Hence, I want to add another golden rule to your detailing industry or anywhere else: "Prevention is better than cure"
#19
Haha, I take it as a compliment.
Right on the your topic of detailing philosophy, after getting more involved in detailing recently, I see it very much an modern day of art form that blends with science particularly chemistry and physics. Therefore, knowing physics and chemistry plus having appreciation of this art, it makes you a better detailer.
At the end I'm still a detailer in training just like you lol. Still have a lot to learn from the master Zach and other pros
Right on the your topic of detailing philosophy, after getting more involved in detailing recently, I see it very much an modern day of art form that blends with science particularly chemistry and physics. Therefore, knowing physics and chemistry plus having appreciation of this art, it makes you a better detailer.
At the end I'm still a detailer in training just like you lol. Still have a lot to learn from the master Zach and other pros
#20
For leather, Carpro Cquartz Leather & Vinyl coating is the best. Nothing can really stick to it, permanent marker, and even super glue does no effect. In addition, the feel is the best--super silky smooth, slick but not slippery. Nothing can comes close to it, not even Ultima Interior Guard Plus.
I used whole 30ml bottle to cover all the leather seats and the vinyl on the doors on my IS350. It was enough for 3 coats on driver and passenger's seats but all other area have only 2 coats. The product seems to dry/flash very quickly. I have to add new drops to the applicator very often.
I used whole 30ml bottle to cover all the leather seats and the vinyl on the doors on my IS350. It was enough for 3 coats on driver and passenger's seats but all other area have only 2 coats. The product seems to dry/flash very quickly. I have to add new drops to the applicator very often.
I was wondering if you (or any one else here) would recommend using Cquartz on the NuLuxe material on the 3IS cars. Or would you rather recommend 303 Aerospace or some maybe something else?
Thanks for any tips!
#21
I'm sure Cquartz leather can be used on nuluxe. I'm planning to do it. 303 is a different product which doesn't last as long as Cquartz.
#22
Anyways, IMO, I agree with Glock47, you can use either products. If you don't mind applying 303 every 1-2 month, it really rocks in term of UV protection and has been tested and proven by many including me. If you want to do it once and for all, go with Cquartz leather coating which will last 1-2 years.
The major benefit that Cquartz leather offers better than 303 is the dye transfer, stain resistance. That is why it is very easy to clean after the coating because nothing can really stick to it so a damp microfiber is all you need.
Watch this extreme testing of the Cquartz Leather Coating and you will see what I'm talking about.
#25
Had my leather and panels coated by Lustr a couple weeks ago. Can't really tell the difference to be honest. I may do the fabric coat on my carpet.
Besides 303, what you use for the plastic panels? I have some Perl. Either you or Zach chime in?
Besides 303, what you use for the plastic panels? I have some Perl. Either you or Zach chime in?
#26
Lexus Test Driver
Any tips for the wood steering wheel, since the top part is most exposed to the elements?
Also, I know Gummi Pflege and even 303 is popular for weatherstripping, but I talked to a detailing shop and they said they only use mink oil. Anyone have experience using that on the weatherstripping?
Also, I know Gummi Pflege and even 303 is popular for weatherstripping, but I talked to a detailing shop and they said they only use mink oil. Anyone have experience using that on the weatherstripping?
Last edited by NickTee; 05-13-15 at 03:00 PM.
#27
I used all weather rubber mat and therefore did not do any fabric coat. The rubber mat lasts many years without any problem and I think that is a better solution than coating the fabric.
I'm always big fan of 303 and it works like a champ for plastic panels. I like its look and UV protection the best. I have tried Perl too but i find it does attract dust plus it is kind of oily/greasy so I don't like it much. Some others like Perl but not me. I will stick with 303 which has been proven to work good in my case.
#28
Any tips for the wood steering wheel, since the top part is most exposed to the elements?
Also, I know Gummi Pflege and even 303 is popular for weatherstripping, but I talked to a detailing shop and they said they only use mink oil. Anyone have experience using that on the weatherstripping?
Also, I know Gummi Pflege and even 303 is popular for weatherstripping, but I talked to a detailing shop and they said they only use mink oil. Anyone have experience using that on the weatherstripping?
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