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Anyone Ever Clay Bar?

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Old 05-26-14, 09:21 AM
  #16  
Diesel350
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Originally Posted by BinaryJay
I find it doesn't make much of a difference, so I don't bother any more. Might be different if you drive/live by a lot of rail lines or industrial area. I am way too busy to do the whole A-Z machine polishing any more, it's way too much work just to get that last 10% of temporary shine.
You don't have to live next to an industrial area to get contaminants on your paint. You can still get contaminants embedded in your paint from other things like brake dust. It's recommended to claybar your car at least once a year.

Last edited by Diesel350; 05-26-14 at 06:05 PM.
Old 05-26-14, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Diesel350
LOL wow you claybarred for 5 hours? I think you over claybarred. It really shouldn't take you more than an hour. Once the clay bar runs smoothly over the panel then you are good to move on to the next panel.
well said ............
Old 05-26-14, 01:12 PM
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I think it took me about an hour to do my whole car. I used less than 22oz of Glide.(10:1).
Old 05-26-14, 09:58 PM
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I myself hate using a clay bar. It's a big pain. This year I switched over to a more expensive alternative. It's the nanoskin autoscrub towel which goes $40 to $60 depending where you purchase it from. This towel will reduce the job down to 15-30 mins and can be 50 to 80 times (according to autoscrub)

Most people just need to clay their cars twice a year so this is a sound investment for me. Autoscrub also makes a sponge for a fraction of the towel
Old 05-27-14, 07:59 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by BinaryJay
I find it doesn't make much of a difference, so I don't bother any more. Might be different if you drive/live by a lot of rail lines or industrial area. I am way too busy to do the whole A-Z machine polishing any more, it's way too much work just to get that last 10% of temporary shine.
Doesn't make much of a difference in what sense? The purpose of a clay bar is simply to remove bonded surface contaminates to truly clean the paint... it will not create a visual difference (at least not usually).

The decontamination process is an important one, despite the fact that it will not produce a noticeably different look. These tiny bonded particles can act as abrasives if they get caught in between your wash mitt, towels, buffing pad, etc and can therefore lead to swirls and scratches.

If you have not heard of "the baggie test", check out this article on how to tell if your paint is truly free of bonded contaminates.

Originally Posted by oemis250
i probably would never clay bar my car again, took almost 5 hrs fml
See my above response as to why claying is important. If you maintain your vehicle properly, you will not spend nearly this amount of time decontaminating your vehicle.

If you live in an area where industrial fallout/iron contamination is an issue (ie any city) then using a product like CarPro IronX prior to claying will help to remove the majority of the bonded iron particles from the surface and will make claying much quicker.

Originally Posted by Zelfiris
I myself hate using a clay bar. It's a big pain. This year I switched over to a more expensive alternative. It's the nanoskin autoscrub towel which goes $40 to $60 depending where you purchase it from. This towel will reduce the job down to 15-30 mins and can be 50 to 80 times (according to autoscrub)

Most people just need to clay their cars twice a year so this is a sound investment for me. Autoscrub also makes a sponge for a fraction of the towel
While the nanoskin products are surely a great tool for quick and easy decontamination, they are also much more aggressive than traditional clay. With that, they are very prone to leaving faint marring on the paint. For this reason, I only recommend using these synthetic clay substitutes if you plan on polishing the vehicle after decontamination. Just my $0.02 as someone that has used the nanoskin products a lot.
Old 05-27-14, 02:07 PM
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I also clay bar my car once a year, the trick is to 'loosen' contaminates that attached to the clear coat before claying. So after initial wash, I apply iron X and it basically attacks those little particles of rust, little rusty color dots, then I do a quick wash again, rinse, and then clay bar with a lube on already wet surface. After that, one step polish to make sure no marring is present, wax and you good to go. If you are looking for that awesome shine, 95% is the paint prep and the rest is wax/sealant. I agree, first detail is the most time consuming, but after that it's a easy and fast to keep it clean.
Old 05-27-14, 05:30 PM
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Originally Posted by zmcgovern4
The decontamination process is an important one, despite the fact that it will not produce a noticeably different look. These tiny bonded particles can act as abrasives if they get caught in between your wash mitt, towels, buffing pad, etc and can therefore lead to swirls and scratches.
Even if they stay stuck in the paint they are a problem. Larger embedded particles and especially paint overspray can actually catch on your MF towels or foam buffer pads and tear them, or at least, leave a little area behind the embedded particle where dried polish can collect, since they stick out of the surface of the paint. You have to get rid of these before you polish.

I can't imagine not claying before polishing. It takes so little time.
Old 05-29-14, 11:16 AM
  #23  
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Default Claying

I just spend three days working on mine. Wash, Clay, compound, polish, seal, wax.
Attached Thumbnails Anyone Ever Clay Bar?-iphone-pics-5-28-14-043.jpg   Anyone Ever Clay Bar?-iphone-pics-5-28-14-044.jpg  
Old 05-29-14, 12:18 PM
  #24  
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I'm a believer after using it one time... not so much the appearance change... but the feel of the paint is so smooth. Can't tell if your running your fingers on the glass or the paint... it's that smooth.
I believe that at least once a year is reasonable.
I did mine as i had tiny tar specs all over the trunk and was looking for something to take it off. Bonus was the incredible smooth feel and the tar came of easily enough.
Old 05-31-14, 06:25 PM
  #25  
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Agreed 100%. I do not live by a railroad track and hardly ever driver over them. Rail dust is not the only thing that contaminates paint.

Originally Posted by Diesel350
You don't have to live next to an industrial area to get contaminants on your paint. You can still get contaminants embedded in your paint from other things like brake dust. It's recommended to claybar your car at least once a year.
Old 06-01-14, 02:25 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by bradtopp
Agreed 100%. I do not live by a railroad track and hardly ever driver over them. Rail dust is not the only thing that contaminates paint.
If you want to make your life easier, I highly recommend introducing a product like CarPro Iron X and CarPro Tar X into your decontamination routine.

Use these products every 4-6 months to remove bonded surface contaminates such as Iron/rail dust as well as tar. This will make annual claying much quicker and easier.

-Zach
Old 06-01-14, 02:54 PM
  #27  
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shouldnt take 5 hours. Not sure what your method is but should take no longer than 1.5 hours
Old 06-01-14, 03:20 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 4TehNguyen
shouldnt take 5 hours. Not sure what your method is but should take no longer than 1.5 hours
Depending on how bad the contamination is, it can take quite a while if the vehicle has been neglected...

but yes, in general, 5 hours is a very long time to clay
Old 07-07-14, 12:58 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by zmcgovern4
Doesn't make much of a difference in what sense? The purpose of a clay bar is simply to remove bonded surface contaminates to truly clean the paint... it will not create a visual difference (at least not usually).

The decontamination process is an important one, despite the fact that it will not produce a noticeably different look. These tiny bonded particles can act as abrasives if they get caught in between your wash mitt, towels, buffing pad, etc and can therefore lead to swirls and scratches.

If you have not heard of "the baggie test", check out this article on how to tell if your paint is truly free of bonded contaminates.


See my above response as to why claying is important. If you maintain your vehicle properly, you will not spend nearly this amount of time decontaminating your vehicle.

If you live in an area where industrial fallout/iron contamination is an issue (ie any city) then using a product like CarPro IronX prior to claying will help to remove the majority of the bonded iron particles from the surface and will make claying much quicker.


While the nanoskin products are surely a great tool for quick and easy decontamination, they are also much more aggressive than traditional clay. With that, they are very prone to leaving faint marring on the paint. For this reason, I only recommend using these synthetic clay substitutes if you plan on polishing the vehicle after decontamination. Just my $0.02 as someone that has used the nanoskin products a lot.

Hi Zach

What kind of clay bar do you recommend and clay lubricant? Just got rid of my black IS and got the ultra white one and am interested in claying it. The black just turned out to be too much work to detail and even my detailer was having trouble claying my black car with his regular products he uses and even with prototype products from Maguires that he tests for them.

Thanks for your help
Old 07-07-14, 06:02 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by dstopsie
Hi Zach

What kind of clay bar do you recommend and clay lubricant? Just got rid of my black IS and got the ultra white one and am interested in claying it. The black just turned out to be too much work to detail and even my detailer was having trouble claying my black car with his regular products he uses and even with prototype products from Maguires that he tests for them.

Thanks for your help
Clay Magic Fine Grade Clay Bar

NanoSkin Glide Clay Lubricant


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