drying car with quick detail and waffle weave or sheeting?
03-09-14, 08:27 AM
#1
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drying car with quick detail and waffle weave or sheeting?
Ok well i seen a chemical guys video and they dry there cars by 1. Spraying a section with quick detail and 2. Drying with a waffle weave....is they a good way to dry ?
03-09-14, 08:40 AM
#2
QD sprays are often used as a 'drying aid' in that they help to lubricate the surface as you wipe your towel on the paint and they also make it easier to dry spot free as they evaporate much quicker than water does. Also, most of them contain some sort of gloss enhancer so they give a nice little extra bit of gloss.
In any case, the surface should be sheeted to remove the majority of water before using a towel... if you don't utilize the sheeting method, you are just making yourself work harder to dry your car.
If you've got a good layer of protection on your vehicle, you should be able to get 75% (or so) of the water off by sheeting, then you can quickly follow up with a waffle weave microfiber towel or Master Blaster to remove the remaining water. If there are any streaks, then I like to do a quick wipe down with a QD like Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer.
In any case, the surface should be sheeted to remove the majority of water before using a towel... if you don't utilize the sheeting method, you are just making yourself work harder to dry your car.
If you've got a good layer of protection on your vehicle, you should be able to get 75% (or so) of the water off by sheeting, then you can quickly follow up with a waffle weave microfiber towel or Master Blaster to remove the remaining water. If there are any streaks, then I like to do a quick wipe down with a QD like Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer.
03-09-14, 11:00 AM
#3
QD sprays are often used as a 'drying aid' in that they help to lubricate the surface as you wipe your towel on the paint and they also make it easier to dry spot free as they evaporate much quicker than water does. Also, most of them contain some sort of gloss enhancer so they give a nice little extra bit of gloss.
In any case, the surface should be sheeted to remove the majority of water before using a towel... if you don't utilize the sheeting method, you are just making yourself work harder to dry your car.
If you've got a good layer of protection on your vehicle, you should be able to get 75% (or so) of the water off by sheeting, then you can quickly follow up with a waffle weave microfiber towel or Master Blaster to remove the remaining water. If there are any streaks, then I like to do a quick wipe down with a QD like Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer.
In any case, the surface should be sheeted to remove the majority of water before using a towel... if you don't utilize the sheeting method, you are just making yourself work harder to dry your car.
If you've got a good layer of protection on your vehicle, you should be able to get 75% (or so) of the water off by sheeting, then you can quickly follow up with a waffle weave microfiber towel or Master Blaster to remove the remaining water. If there are any streaks, then I like to do a quick wipe down with a QD like Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer.
Just my two cents!
03-09-14, 02:38 PM
#4
When doing anything in terms of washing, drying and cleaning, you want to touch the car as least as possible and as lightly as possible to minimize the chance for swirl marks. That means blow dry as much as possible and blot dry as much as you can because those two ways of drying should not cause swirl marks at all.
Past that, it's all techniques and tips/tricks for safer ways of drying paint. The Metrovac Sidekick Blower is a great tool that's underestimated by many due to the rated power of the motor, but it is able to remove a lot more than 75% of water from the paint. In fact, I usually use it to blow off 95-99% of water before quickly wiping off any tiny spots with the waffle weave dry towel.
Using quick detailer to remove these last few spots of water (or all the water if you don't have a blower) is one of those techniques that will help minimize swirl marks.
My advice to dry after washing has always been as follows:
1. Sheet a lot of the water off using a slow flow from the hose
2. If you have one, use a blower to remove most of the water from the paint, but also work top to bottom to blow out water from trim, jambs (with doors closed) and crevices.
2a. If you don't have a blower, blot dry the remaining water after sheeting.
3. Lightly wipe (with use of a quick detailer when possible) any remaining tiny water spots left over.
4. Open all doors, hood and trunk and dry the jambs (preferably using a different drying towel than you use for the exterior paint)
One thing to keep in mind is the temperature and environment in which you're working. Whether you're utilizing a blower or not, you need to keep in mind that water will dry on the paint if it's fairly warm out (especially if you MUST wash in the sun). Thus, it's imperative to work section by section when drying to avoid water spots, again when it's fairly warm out. This means that if you start with the sheeting method, do it only on the upper section of the car (roof, windows, pillars, mirrors) then proceed with steps 2-3 above. Sometime during the process on the upper section, grab your hose and rinse down the rest of the car to make sure its stays wet and no water spots form. Next, move on to say hood, fenders and front bumper steps 1-3 and repeat going around the car. The reason for this is if you sheet the whole car in step 1, by the time you're doing with steps 2-3 on the roof and windows, the remaining spots of water left on the trunk or hood may dry and turn into water spots. You can leave step 4 for last as you want that water to drain out as much as possible before you actually go to dry it.
Hope that makes sense and helps!
Ivan @ DI
Past that, it's all techniques and tips/tricks for safer ways of drying paint. The Metrovac Sidekick Blower is a great tool that's underestimated by many due to the rated power of the motor, but it is able to remove a lot more than 75% of water from the paint. In fact, I usually use it to blow off 95-99% of water before quickly wiping off any tiny spots with the waffle weave dry towel.
Using quick detailer to remove these last few spots of water (or all the water if you don't have a blower) is one of those techniques that will help minimize swirl marks.
My advice to dry after washing has always been as follows:
1. Sheet a lot of the water off using a slow flow from the hose
2. If you have one, use a blower to remove most of the water from the paint, but also work top to bottom to blow out water from trim, jambs (with doors closed) and crevices.
2a. If you don't have a blower, blot dry the remaining water after sheeting.
3. Lightly wipe (with use of a quick detailer when possible) any remaining tiny water spots left over.
4. Open all doors, hood and trunk and dry the jambs (preferably using a different drying towel than you use for the exterior paint)
One thing to keep in mind is the temperature and environment in which you're working. Whether you're utilizing a blower or not, you need to keep in mind that water will dry on the paint if it's fairly warm out (especially if you MUST wash in the sun). Thus, it's imperative to work section by section when drying to avoid water spots, again when it's fairly warm out. This means that if you start with the sheeting method, do it only on the upper section of the car (roof, windows, pillars, mirrors) then proceed with steps 2-3 above. Sometime during the process on the upper section, grab your hose and rinse down the rest of the car to make sure its stays wet and no water spots form. Next, move on to say hood, fenders and front bumper steps 1-3 and repeat going around the car. The reason for this is if you sheet the whole car in step 1, by the time you're doing with steps 2-3 on the roof and windows, the remaining spots of water left on the trunk or hood may dry and turn into water spots. You can leave step 4 for last as you want that water to drain out as much as possible before you actually go to dry it.
Hope that makes sense and helps!
Ivan @ DI
03-09-14, 03:16 PM
#5
When doing anything in terms of washing, drying and cleaning, you want to touch the car as least as possible and as lightly as possible to minimize the chance for swirl marks. That means blow dry as much as possible and blot dry as much as you can because those two ways of drying should not cause swirl marks at all.
Past that, it's all techniques and tips/tricks for safer ways of drying paint. The Metrovac Sidekick Blower is a great tool that's underestimated by many due to the rated power of the motor, but it is able to remove a lot more than 75% of water from the paint. In fact, I usually use it to blow off 95-99% of water before quickly wiping off any tiny spots with the waffle weave dry towel.
Using quick detailer to remove these last few spots of water (or all the water if you don't have a blower) is one of those techniques that will help minimize swirl marks.
My advice to dry after washing has always been as follows:
1. Sheet a lot of the water off using a slow flow from the hose
2. If you have one, use a blower to remove most of the water from the paint, but also work top to bottom to blow out water from trim, jambs (with doors closed) and crevices.
2a. If you don't have a blower, blot dry the remaining water after sheeting.
3. Lightly wipe (with use of a quick detailer when possible) any remaining tiny water spots left over.
4. Open all doors, hood and trunk and dry the jambs (preferably using a different drying towel than you use for the exterior paint)
One thing to keep in mind is the temperature and environment in which you're working. Whether you're utilizing a blower or not, you need to keep in mind that water will dry on the paint if it's fairly warm out (especially if you MUST wash in the sun). Thus, it's imperative to work section by section when drying to avoid water spots, again when it's fairly warm out. This means that if you start with the sheeting method, do it only on the upper section of the car (roof, windows, pillars, mirrors) then proceed with steps 2-3 above. Sometime during the process on the upper section, grab your hose and rinse down the rest of the car to make sure its stays wet and no water spots form. Next, move on to say hood, fenders and front bumper steps 1-3 and repeat going around the car. The reason for this is if you sheet the whole car in step 1, by the time you're doing with steps 2-3 on the roof and windows, the remaining spots of water left on the trunk or hood may dry and turn into water spots. You can leave step 4 for last as you want that water to drain out as much as possible before you actually go to dry it.
Hope that makes sense and helps!
Ivan @ DI
Past that, it's all techniques and tips/tricks for safer ways of drying paint. The Metrovac Sidekick Blower is a great tool that's underestimated by many due to the rated power of the motor, but it is able to remove a lot more than 75% of water from the paint. In fact, I usually use it to blow off 95-99% of water before quickly wiping off any tiny spots with the waffle weave dry towel.
Using quick detailer to remove these last few spots of water (or all the water if you don't have a blower) is one of those techniques that will help minimize swirl marks.
My advice to dry after washing has always been as follows:
1. Sheet a lot of the water off using a slow flow from the hose
2. If you have one, use a blower to remove most of the water from the paint, but also work top to bottom to blow out water from trim, jambs (with doors closed) and crevices.
2a. If you don't have a blower, blot dry the remaining water after sheeting.
3. Lightly wipe (with use of a quick detailer when possible) any remaining tiny water spots left over.
4. Open all doors, hood and trunk and dry the jambs (preferably using a different drying towel than you use for the exterior paint)
One thing to keep in mind is the temperature and environment in which you're working. Whether you're utilizing a blower or not, you need to keep in mind that water will dry on the paint if it's fairly warm out (especially if you MUST wash in the sun). Thus, it's imperative to work section by section when drying to avoid water spots, again when it's fairly warm out. This means that if you start with the sheeting method, do it only on the upper section of the car (roof, windows, pillars, mirrors) then proceed with steps 2-3 above. Sometime during the process on the upper section, grab your hose and rinse down the rest of the car to make sure its stays wet and no water spots form. Next, move on to say hood, fenders and front bumper steps 1-3 and repeat going around the car. The reason for this is if you sheet the whole car in step 1, by the time you're doing with steps 2-3 on the roof and windows, the remaining spots of water left on the trunk or hood may dry and turn into water spots. You can leave step 4 for last as you want that water to drain out as much as possible before you actually go to dry it.
Hope that makes sense and helps!
Ivan @ DI
03-09-14, 05:03 PM
#6
Whether you spray the QD on the towel or on the car, it will still be damp immediately. You'll actually find the towel works better when it is slightly damp
03-09-14, 05:37 PM
#7
When doing anything in terms of washing, drying and cleaning, you want to touch the car as least as possible and as lightly as possible to minimize the chance for swirl marks. That means blow dry as much as possible and blot dry as much as you can because those two ways of drying should not cause swirl marks at all.
Past that, it's all techniques and tips/tricks for safer ways of drying paint. The Metrovac Sidekick Blower is a great tool that's underestimated by many due to the rated power of the motor, but it is able to remove a lot more than 75% of water from the paint. In fact, I usually use it to blow off 95-99% of water before quickly wiping off any tiny spots with the waffle weave dry towel.
Using quick detailer to remove these last few spots of water (or all the water if you don't have a blower) is one of those techniques that will help minimize swirl marks.
My advice to dry after washing has always been as follows:
1. Sheet a lot of the water off using a slow flow from the hose
2. If you have one, use a blower to remove most of the water from the paint, but also work top to bottom to blow out water from trim, jambs (with doors closed) and crevices.
2a. If you don't have a blower, blot dry the remaining water after sheeting.
3. Lightly wipe (with use of a quick detailer when possible) any remaining tiny water spots left over.
4. Open all doors, hood and trunk and dry the jambs (preferably using a different drying towel than you use for the exterior paint)
One thing to keep in mind is the temperature and environment in which you're working. Whether you're utilizing a blower or not, you need to keep in mind that water will dry on the paint if it's fairly warm out (especially if you MUST wash in the sun). Thus, it's imperative to work section by section when drying to avoid water spots, again when it's fairly warm out. This means that if you start with the sheeting method, do it only on the upper section of the car (roof, windows, pillars, mirrors) then proceed with steps 2-3 above. Sometime during the process on the upper section, grab your hose and rinse down the rest of the car to make sure its stays wet and no water spots form. Next, move on to say hood, fenders and front bumper steps 1-3 and repeat going around the car. The reason for this is if you sheet the whole car in step 1, by the time you're doing with steps 2-3 on the roof and windows, the remaining spots of water left on the trunk or hood may dry and turn into water spots. You can leave step 4 for last as you want that water to drain out as much as possible before you actually go to dry it.
Hope that makes sense and helps!
Ivan @ DI
Past that, it's all techniques and tips/tricks for safer ways of drying paint. The Metrovac Sidekick Blower is a great tool that's underestimated by many due to the rated power of the motor, but it is able to remove a lot more than 75% of water from the paint. In fact, I usually use it to blow off 95-99% of water before quickly wiping off any tiny spots with the waffle weave dry towel.
Using quick detailer to remove these last few spots of water (or all the water if you don't have a blower) is one of those techniques that will help minimize swirl marks.
My advice to dry after washing has always been as follows:
1. Sheet a lot of the water off using a slow flow from the hose
2. If you have one, use a blower to remove most of the water from the paint, but also work top to bottom to blow out water from trim, jambs (with doors closed) and crevices.
2a. If you don't have a blower, blot dry the remaining water after sheeting.
3. Lightly wipe (with use of a quick detailer when possible) any remaining tiny water spots left over.
4. Open all doors, hood and trunk and dry the jambs (preferably using a different drying towel than you use for the exterior paint)
One thing to keep in mind is the temperature and environment in which you're working. Whether you're utilizing a blower or not, you need to keep in mind that water will dry on the paint if it's fairly warm out (especially if you MUST wash in the sun). Thus, it's imperative to work section by section when drying to avoid water spots, again when it's fairly warm out. This means that if you start with the sheeting method, do it only on the upper section of the car (roof, windows, pillars, mirrors) then proceed with steps 2-3 above. Sometime during the process on the upper section, grab your hose and rinse down the rest of the car to make sure its stays wet and no water spots form. Next, move on to say hood, fenders and front bumper steps 1-3 and repeat going around the car. The reason for this is if you sheet the whole car in step 1, by the time you're doing with steps 2-3 on the roof and windows, the remaining spots of water left on the trunk or hood may dry and turn into water spots. You can leave step 4 for last as you want that water to drain out as much as possible before you actually go to dry it.
Hope that makes sense and helps!
Ivan @ DI
Are water spots an issue if you're washing inside a garage and the weather isn't hot? Thanks!
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03-09-14, 05:42 PM
#8
Water spots will form if water is left to dry on the surface regardless of where you are washing... it is more of a concern if you are washing in warmer weather as the water will evaporate quicker leaving you less time to wipe it off before spotting occurs.
Water spots are actually mineral deposits left from the water droplets, therefore the harder your water is, the worse the spotting will be. If you want to rinse without the risk of spotting, you can invest in a water de-ionizing system like the CR Spotless. This removes all minerals from the water which allows you to simply rinse the car and then walk away without drying! (they're rather pricey though)
Water spots are actually mineral deposits left from the water droplets, therefore the harder your water is, the worse the spotting will be. If you want to rinse without the risk of spotting, you can invest in a water de-ionizing system like the CR Spotless. This removes all minerals from the water which allows you to simply rinse the car and then walk away without drying! (they're rather pricey though)
03-09-14, 07:57 PM
#9
Water spots will form if water is left to dry on the surface regardless of where you are washing... it is more of a concern if you are washing in warmer weather as the water will evaporate quicker leaving you less time to wipe it off before spotting occurs.
Water spots are actually mineral deposits left from the water droplets, therefore the harder your water is, the worse the spotting will be. If you want to rinse without the risk of spotting, you can invest in a water de-ionizing system like the CR Spotless. This removes all minerals from the water which allows you to simply rinse the car and then walk away without drying! (they're rather pricey though)
Water spots are actually mineral deposits left from the water droplets, therefore the harder your water is, the worse the spotting will be. If you want to rinse without the risk of spotting, you can invest in a water de-ionizing system like the CR Spotless. This removes all minerals from the water which allows you to simply rinse the car and then walk away without drying! (they're rather pricey though)
03-10-14, 07:06 PM
#11
The only issue I've had from a CR Spotless is sometimes it messes with your LSP. I recall one time where I sprayed and parked it in my garage and when it rained, it had very odd droplet shapes. I'm not sure if being deionized did something to the surface but it intrigued me. That being said, its a great way to finish off a wash since I can spray off the ionized water with the CR and dry with no worries about the water that drips down from the trunk
03-11-14, 08:30 PM
#13
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I dont have a leaf blower just a shop vac that sucks and blows lol chemical guys has a cool blower for pretty cheap but i can prolly get one from wally world for next to nothing...i also use black microfiber towels for the door jambs and all thise dirty spots where the rubber keeps out rain water.
03-12-14, 09:01 AM
#15
i prefer the sheeting method and a Waffle Weave towel. after the sheeting... i may have a few drops on the hood and maybe the trunk. i dry my car in minutes... then i'll dampen a MF towel with ONR or OOC and wipe her down.