itstoyota

iTrader: (1)

After wet sanding and buffing my headlights, I still have a slight haze ONLY when I have my lights (HID) on. I wet sanded up to 3000 grit, then buffed using meguiar's ultimate compound and finishing off with ultimate polish. The lenses look great when the lights are off, but when the lights are on, there is still a slight haze. Any suggestions on what product might solve this problem? I want the lens to be crystal clear with the lights both on and off. Thanks!

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

Did you sand by hand or machine?

Did you buff by hand or machine?

What pads were used for the compound and polish?

I suspect you did not completely remove the sanding marks with the UC and therefore have a slight haze remaining.

itstoyota

iTrader: (1)

Cutting and polishing pad.. I thought the same, so I went back and did another round w UC, same results. Using a griots buffer.

UDel

I get the same thing, they look great when the lights are off after wetsanding and buffing but there is a haze/foggy effect when the lights are on, it is more noticeable with HID's and you can't really do anything about it. It is pretty much unavoidable, not sure exactly what it is because I have taken all the extra steps to finish as finely down as possible and still get it. My dad had the same exact results when he wetsanded his headlights and my dad has a lot of experience wet sanding, much more then me. I detail cars on the side and warn customers before I polish/sand their headlights that there will be a visible haze/foggy effect when the lights are on but it won't effect light output.

Still the headlights look much much better and put out more light wetsanded and polished then they due yellowed/whitened with a thick crusty haze.

SC400MAN

iTrader: (1)

Something I have tried on my 97 Supra was a kit from Griot's Garage. You completely wet sand the lights (I used up to 1000 grit paper)and then dry off. Then, their kit includes a spray on that completely covers the lens. Let it sit with the lights in the sun and bake for an hour. This cures and you have perfectly clear lenses. I will warn you that when I had completely sanded the lenses, my first thought was "Oh, CRAP, I have screwed up my lights!" But the spray was perfect.

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

It is possible UC is just "not cutting it"... Pardon the pun.

Do you have something more aggressive like M105?

If so, try M105, UC, then UP.

Just an idea.

itstoyota

iTrader: (1)

Yea.. Think you might be right.

Has anyone used m105 on their lights before? Results? Thanks

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

I do regularly with great results. Have never used UC and UP. Have always had M101 or M105 and M205.

I'll be completely honest and say that I rarely look closely at customer cars with the lights on. I have never had anyone bring it up afterwards though.

itstoyota

iTrader: (1)

Will give the M105 a try. Thanks for the suggestions.

UDel

I have used 3M 3900 rubbing compound, followed by Menzerna IP, followed by Final Polish II or Plastic X and it still does not get rid of that haze/fog when the lights are on. It almost looks like the fog is on the inside of the lights but it is hard to tell. Good luck with the M105.

itstoyota

iTrader: (1)

Is the 3900 more abrasive than 105?

UDel

I have not used Megs 105 yet but I don't think the 3M 3900 is more abrasive then 105 as it does not seem as thick. I used a heavy compound before(forgot the name) that was more abrasive then the 3M compound but results were very similar. 3M 3900 has been very good getting rid of final wetsanding haze/marks for me, it says 3M 3900 can remove 1500 grit sanding marks where it says M105 can remove 1200 grit so not much of a difference but M105 is a little more abrasive.

itstoyota

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info

mnguyec

Use M105 on buffing pad (I prefer surbuf- or lake country yellow) . when it when the compound dries and you want more working life to it, spray the pad with a little mineral oil - one mist is all it takes) keep working the m105 until the haze is gone. Follow up with a any polish with a lighter pad- M205 is a great one btw.

i suggest mixing half spar urathane and mineral spirit together. use a folded blue shop towel and wipe it on the headlight. take another shop towel and buff the excess off.

97-SC300

iTrader: (17)

I've done enough of sets of headlights to know that a foam cutting pad is not going to give you enough cut to remove 3000 grit sanding marks completely, at least not as a one step. You may need to do several sets with a foam pad to remove those. It may give it the gloss, but the sanding marks will still be there.

Just something to keep in mind, a wool pad on a rotary will remove them completely after a one step polish with some decent compound like 105. If you are sanding just the plastic (aka, sanded down the factory coating completely), the plastic is EXTREMELY soft, so the wool will create buffer swirls of its own and need to be followed by a foam cutting/polishing pad.

My process is simple and EXTREMELY effective (done MANY lights like this).

Wetsand 3000, then white wool pad (I use the little 4" B&S pad), on a rotary with Menzerna PowerGloss or 105 at speed 1800. That will remove the 3000 grit marks completely after 3-4 passes. Then come back with a yellow foam cutting pad and wither more PG/105 or a milder polish like SIP or 205. Work it the same way 1500-1800rpm, 95% of the time that will remove any buffer instilled marring/swirls and leave a perfect finish. If there is still light haze, you may need to use a polishing foam pad with 205/SIP or a similar light polish.