zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

I have both the foam cannon and the gilmour foamaster II foam gun... both are good tools to have and I use both on a regular basis.

I typically just use the leaf blower to get any remaining water out of cracks and crevices and to dry the wheels & tires. Works great for those situations.

sydtoosic

i read mixed reviews on the MTM HYDRO PRO from amazon, but when i received it, i was quite impressed, i really like it and would definitely recommend it as a go to foam cannon. my Black Max 1700 PSI 1.2 GPM pressure washer was $129.00 from Sams Club. there is a mini master blaster that CG sells for $68.00, everyone that i know who owns one has good things to say about it. you can go to Home Depot and get a decent LB for close to nothing.

sydtoosic

i have the gilmour 2 also and i don't even use it anymore, once i got the foam cannon i didn't see any use for it anymore.

Bimmer2Lex

Can the leaf blower be used to clean the entire car? I was trying to bypass the microfiber drying to bypass any chance of installing scratches during the drying...plus I think it'd be faster to dry that way, but idk.

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

It can be used to dry the entire vehicle... I assume that is what you meant when you said "clean". I find leaf blowers to take just as long as drying with a MF towel, you have to chase all of the tiny water drops and spots and hope they don't create streaks in the paint. If your car is not protected with a coating or a nice layer of sealant and/or wax then drying with a leaf blower will be more trouble than it is worth because the water will resist sheeting off of the paint.

I much prefer to do my initial drying with a waffle weave MF towel that I have sprayed with ONR. I do not use any pressure, I simply lay the clean towel on the paint and pull it slowly towards me. This removes the majority of the water from the surface, but because I use a dampened towel (for lubrication) there are some small water spots and streaks that remain. Next I will use the leaf blower to remove any water from cracks or crevices and then I follow up with a plush microfiber and a detailing spray (I prefer CG Hybrid V7) to remove the remaining water from the surface. Sounds like a lot of work, but it is pretty quick and easy.

Bimmer2Lex

Definitely meant DRY..my mistake. The car will be OC'd this weekend, so once that was done I was hoping the water would come off fairly easily with the leaf blower. You laid out a good drying regimen, but I still don't trust myself drying with MFs. Are you diluting the ONR before applying to the waffle weave MF before the 1st drying pass? How many sprays - just a couple to moisten the towel?

EDIT: P.S. Apologies sydtoosic if I'm derailing your thread...

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

Water will come off very easily, but you will still be chasing around beads and streaks of water... it doesn't all just magically flow right off when blown with air - you have to direct it all somewhere.

ONR is diluted to quick detailer strength, then I just use a few sprays on the dry towel to give it some lubrication before putting it on the paint. Not an exact science.


... no detailing threads ever stay on track, don't feel bad

Bimmer2Lex

Thanks for the tips man I think I'll end up experimenting with the different drying methods. My car's Obsidian so I'm trying to be extra careful.

What product would you recommend to clean the car, the morning after I've washed it the prior evening (it gets that morning dew on it)? It's parked outside underneath palm trees. I think a full 2BM method would be a little overkill, but at the same time I don't want scratches.

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

In situations where the car is only dusty or just got sprinkled on, I usually do ONR rinseless washes. Yes it is still technically a 2 bucket method, but it is quick and easy compared to a full 2BM with hoses and shampoo and all that.

Some people will say just spray the car with QD and wipe if off or use a "waterless wash" but I always just do a 2BM rinseless wash when the car is in need of a "touch up" rather than a full blown sudsy wash.


As far as being careful... that is great! The best thing you can do is be knowledgeable about what you are doing and try to reduce washing/drying swirls and marring. Don't drive yourself insane though... defects will occur no matter what. You will want to have your car polished every couple of years anyways... no matter how careful you are, you can only do so much. (ask me how I know)

Bimmer2Lex

Thanks man & point taken about the inevitable scratches That's why I wanted OC over CQuartz so the scratches are in the OC, and when I get it polished again, I'll still have plenty of clearcoat under OC. But yeah it's heartbreaking knowing the scratches will come. I guess I'll just try to enjoy it as much as possible while I can hahaha!

tmf2004

iTrader: (15)

it's unfortunate no matter how hard you try you will still end up with light scratches but if you follow the 2 BM and or foam cannon they can be greatly reduced. I'm still not 100% sold on the no rinse method as there still can be airborne particles and contaminants that can create fine scratches on the surface

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