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Paint has no give in for rain???

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Old 09-26-13, 07:47 AM   #16
sydtoosic
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zmcgovern4 View Post
The battle with water spots is a never ending battle. It takes A LOT of work to properly maintain a defect free car. For many of us who use our Lexus as a daily driver, maintaining a flawless finish is simply not a reasonable task. Daily driven vehicles are subject to many challenges such getting stuck in the rain, and then left to bake in the sun immediately after the rain storm. Depending on the chemical makeup of your rain water (ie the water here in the Midwest is very hard - it contains a lot of minerals) it can take only a matter of minutes for light etching to occur on your paint.

*Note: dark colored vehicles are more at risk because the dark paint creates higher surface temperatures. These higher surface temps actually soften the paint slightly which makes it more vulnerable to damage.

Click the image to open in full size.
^This is a black toyota... see all of the water spots? This is AFTER the car had been very thoroughly washed and decontaminated. These were all permanently etched water spots caused by water that had splashed along the side of the car during a rain storm and was left to dry and sit for a while.

Click the image to open in full size.
^Luckily these things can typically be removed with proper machine polishing, but if you let these spots sit for too long, they can even cause clear coat failure.

Protection is key. If your vehicle is not coated with a long-lasting, semi-permanent coating (ie Opti-Coat, 22ple, Cquartz, etc) then you MUST reapply a sealant or wax several times a year. General rule of thumb is to apply a sealant every 4-6 months and if you are using a natural carnauba wax, reapply every 2-8 weeks. If you have a coating on your car (like myself) then you are not completely safe - it just buys you a little more time, but the water spots still need to be removed ASAP. Coatings can still be easily etched by hard water/acid rain.

Aside from ensuring your vehicle is properly protected, you need to wash it regularly. I mean once a week if possible, and at the very least twice a month. Use high quality products (shampoo, wash mitts, microfiber towels - NOT the towels you get at walmart!) and learn the two bucket wash method (3 buckets if you are cleaning your wheels as well - which you should be!). No one is so busy that you can't find an hour of time to wash your car - heck, I usually do mine at night... this works great because the paint is cool, and the water doesn't dry on the surface nearly as fast as it would in the daytime (even if working in shade). Avoid tunnel washes, drive through car washes, touchless washes, whatever you want to call them... the harsh chemicals used to "clean your car" will actually diminish or even remove your sealant or wax, and they don't even get your car all the way clean. Some of these places then have an employee or two waiting at the end to wipe your car down with their old, worn out towels. Well, dirty towels, plus dirt still left on your car means they are scratching your vehicle - no question about it.

For those of you who are paying good money to have a proper professional (like Joe - who I am very familiar with through the detailing world) polish your paint, you need to understand that the defects will return very quickly if you do not learn proper maintenance techniques, and you will be visiting him on a yearly basis for more polishing. I'm sure Joe will tell you the same thing.


I think it is also worth noting that bird bombs and bug guts are even more dangerous than water spots... they need to be removed as soon as you notice them. Both bird droppings and bug splatter contain acid which will literally eat away at your paint.

Click the image to open in full size.
^Here is an example of clear coat failure caused by a bird bomb that was left on the paint for what I was told was "only about a week or so". This is not repairable via detailing and must be repainted.

Another member just created a thread the other day about the clear coat failure that he found that appears to have been caused by bird bombs.
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/auto...-on-paint.html


So remember - proper maintenance and protection are key. "Detailing" is not just something that is done by a professional. Everyone needs to keep their cars clean and protected not just because it looks pretty, but because it will save you thousands of dollars on a new paint job 5 years from now

-Zach
i love the show and tell posts... thanx Z
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Old 09-26-13, 07:56 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sydtoosic View Post
i love the show and tell posts... thanx Z
Well... I figure when I've got a picture to go along with a story, I might as well post it.

Unfortunately I have a picture of just about every type of common defect, so i get to share a lot
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Old 10-10-13, 04:14 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zmcgovern4 View Post
The battle with water spots is a never ending battle. It takes A LOT of work to properly maintain a defect free car. For many of us who use our Lexus as a daily driver, maintaining a flawless finish is simply not a reasonable task. Daily driven vehicles are subject to many challenges such getting stuck in the rain, and then left to bake in the sun immediately after the rain storm. Depending on the chemical makeup of your rain water (ie the water here in the Midwest is very hard - it contains a lot of minerals) it can take only a matter of minutes for light etching to occur on your paint.

*Note: dark colored vehicles are more at risk because the dark paint creates higher surface temperatures. These higher surface temps actually soften the paint slightly which makes it more vulnerable to damage.

Click the image to open in full size.
^This is a black toyota... see all of the water spots? This is AFTER the car had been very thoroughly washed and decontaminated. These were all permanently etched water spots caused by water that had splashed along the side of the car during a rain storm and was left to dry and sit for a while.

Click the image to open in full size.
^Luckily these things can typically be removed with proper machine polishing, but if you let these spots sit for too long, they can even cause clear coat failure.

Protection is key. If your vehicle is not coated with a long-lasting, semi-permanent coating (ie Opti-Coat, 22ple, Cquartz, etc) then you MUST reapply a sealant or wax several times a year. General rule of thumb is to apply a sealant every 4-6 months and if you are using a natural carnauba wax, reapply every 2-8 weeks. If you have a coating on your car (like myself) then you are not completely safe - it just buys you a little more time, but the water spots still need to be removed ASAP. Coatings can still be easily etched by hard water/acid rain.

Aside from ensuring your vehicle is properly protected, you need to wash it regularly. I mean once a week if possible, and at the very least twice a month. Use high quality products (shampoo, wash mitts, microfiber towels - NOT the towels you get at walmart!) and learn the two bucket wash method (3 buckets if you are cleaning your wheels as well - which you should be!). No one is so busy that you can't find an hour of time to wash your car - heck, I usually do mine at night... this works great because the paint is cool, and the water doesn't dry on the surface nearly as fast as it would in the daytime (even if working in shade). Avoid tunnel washes, drive through car washes, touchless washes, whatever you want to call them... the harsh chemicals used to "clean your car" will actually diminish or even remove your sealant or wax, and they don't even get your car all the way clean. Some of these places then have an employee or two waiting at the end to wipe your car down with their old, worn out towels. Well, dirty towels, plus dirt still left on your car means they are scratching your vehicle - no question about it.

For those of you who are paying good money to have a proper professional (like Joe - who I am very familiar with through the detailing world) polish your paint, you need to understand that the defects will return very quickly if you do not learn proper maintenance techniques, and you will be visiting him on a yearly basis for more polishing. I'm sure Joe will tell you the same thing.


I think it is also worth noting that bird bombs and bug guts are even more dangerous than water spots... they need to be removed as soon as you notice them. Both bird droppings and bug splatter contain acid which will literally eat away at your paint.

Click the image to open in full size.
^Here is an example of clear coat failure caused by a bird bomb that was left on the paint for what I was told was "only about a week or so". This is not repairable via detailing and must be repainted.

Another member just created a thread the other day about the clear coat failure that he found that appears to have been caused by bird bombs.
http://www.clublexus.com/forums/auto...-on-paint.html


So remember - proper maintenance and protection are key. "Detailing" is not just something that is done by a professional. Everyone needs to keep their cars clean and protected not just because it looks pretty, but because it will save you thousands of dollars on a new paint job 5 years from now

-Zach
Question... Water spots wouldn't 't be an issue if you have a garage queen that doesn't sit
out in the sun? Correct?
Feedback please.
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Old 10-10-13, 08:49 PM   #19
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Does your garage queen ever get rained on?

Any water spots can cause etching in the paint regardless of if the car is in the sun or not. The sun typically speeds the etching process up though.
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Old 10-31-13, 09:23 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by zmcgovern4 View Post
I think it is also worth noting that bird bombs and bug guts are even more dangerous than water spots... they need to be removed as soon as you notice them. Both bird droppings and bug splatter contain acid which will literally eat away at your paint.
What do you recommend for wiping off the bird presents and bug splatters left beind. Both on the paint and also on paint protection film?
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Old 11-01-13, 07:08 AM   #21
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A bug and tar product like Chemical Guys Bug Bugger and Tar Remover will be ideal for dried on bird droppings and, obviously, bugs.

Here is an article by Mike Phillips that also demonstrates a great way to remove bird bombs.

The idea is to soften the dried on crud before removing it because you DO NOT ever want to scrub or use force when washing your vehicle. Use proper products to break down the debris before carefully wiping it away with your wash mitt (if you're doing a full wash) or your microfiber (if you are simply wiping it away).
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Old 11-01-13, 09:57 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by zmcgovern4 View Post
A bug and tar product like Chemical Guys Bug Bugger and Tar Remover will be ideal for dried on bird droppings and, obviously, bugs.
Are bug and tar removers safe to use on paint protection films?
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Old 11-01-13, 11:27 AM   #23
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Are bug and tar removers safe to use on paint protection films?
I cannot speak for all bug & tar removers, but I have personally used the Chemical Guys product that I listed above on many PPFs and have had zero problems.

I'm sure some other bug & tar products may be more harsh and harmful.

The key with any bug and tar type product is to NEVER let it dry on the surface you are using it on. This is when staining could occur.
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Old 11-01-13, 11:27 AM
 
 
 
 
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