I'm a believer
06-09-13, 05:14 PM
#1
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I'm a believer
I've been practicing by detailing our older cars an finally got the courage to take on my 8-week old gs350. Planning to put 22ple next week, so I couldn't stall any longer.
I only worked on the hood today. Started by doing a section with a black lc pad & meg 205. Didn't help much, so I did it again. Better, but not great. Then I went to the white pad and the 105, which did the trick. Followed up with black &205. Learned a few things. Clean the driveway first, because the MF towels pick up everything on the ground and they dont come out in the wash. On one section I was pushing down too hard and I can see the difference from the other sections. I'll do it over later this week.
The first picture is the "after" and the 2nd is the "before".
I only worked on the hood today. Started by doing a section with a black lc pad & meg 205. Didn't help much, so I did it again. Better, but not great. Then I went to the white pad and the 105, which did the trick. Followed up with black &205. Learned a few things. Clean the driveway first, because the MF towels pick up everything on the ground and they dont come out in the wash. On one section I was pushing down too hard and I can see the difference from the other sections. I'll do it over later this week.
The first picture is the "after" and the 2nd is the "before".
Last edited by larryinWA; 06-09-13 at 05:39 PM.
06-10-13, 07:14 AM
#2
1JZ Single SC400
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You can definitely see the difference. You use the same method as I do when buffing cars. I always start with the lightest compound first then go harsher if needed. Some people just go straight to the hard core, but I have never liked this method. Maybe it is just me and being ****... Who knows?
Looks a lot better, now post pictures of the whole car once done.
Looks a lot better, now post pictures of the whole car once done.
06-10-13, 08:15 AM
#4
If there is one thing I always wished for, is that the Japanese would start implementing the same paint methods utilized by many German and American companies as they are far superior. I know alot of it has to do with government regulations, EPA, etc.... so some things can't change I suppose.
06-10-13, 07:47 PM
#5
job well done... you should have applied the 22PLE right after you polished her.... well after the polish then wash off the residue and polishing dust, IPAx2, then the 22PLE.
Last edited by sydtoosic; 06-10-13 at 07:50 PM.
06-10-13, 09:33 PM
#6
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This is going to be a little complicated, since I won't be able to do the 22PLE until the weekend, because I need to borrow a garage. I'm doing the 105/205 on sections of the car after work each day this week. Maybe I'll have to plan on a complete touch-up with 205 before the 22ple. It's all good practice, though.
Tonight I re-did the hood and also did the front fenders. On a sticky thread, I found a couple of tips that I think will pay off. It was suggested to use a permanent marker to put a mark on the pads, so that it's easy to judge the rotational speed. That worked great. Another was to put the drops of polish on the pad and then spread it on the area to be polished, without turning on the DA. I think that's a good idea as well. It was much easier to do it tonight, since it wasn't hot out. I'll see how it looks tomorrow in the sunlight, but I think it will be good.
Here's some more pictures.
Tonight I re-did the hood and also did the front fenders. On a sticky thread, I found a couple of tips that I think will pay off. It was suggested to use a permanent marker to put a mark on the pads, so that it's easy to judge the rotational speed. That worked great. Another was to put the drops of polish on the pad and then spread it on the area to be polished, without turning on the DA. I think that's a good idea as well. It was much easier to do it tonight, since it wasn't hot out. I'll see how it looks tomorrow in the sunlight, but I think it will be good.
Here's some more pictures.
06-10-13, 10:21 PM
#7
Just a word of advice, you are creating extra work for yourself taping up all of the stuff. The only thing you should really be taping are black plastics because running a buffer over them can make them glossy if they are matte or potentially stain them.
Putting tape on door and bumper gaps is a very unnecessary step that not only makes you spend time in the beginning, but can result in more work during the clean up stage if the edge of the pad gets caught on a piece of exposed tape and compound start flinging everywhere or building up underneath the tape. If you were using a rotary, than yes, you might wanna tape that stuff, especially edges, but with any DA it is truly a waste of time.
Putting tape on door and bumper gaps is a very unnecessary step that not only makes you spend time in the beginning, but can result in more work during the clean up stage if the edge of the pad gets caught on a piece of exposed tape and compound start flinging everywhere or building up underneath the tape. If you were using a rotary, than yes, you might wanna tape that stuff, especially edges, but with any DA it is truly a waste of time.
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06-11-13, 04:47 PM
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The sun finally came out, so I ran outside to check how I did on the hood & fenders last night. Used some onr to wash the hood & trunk for comparison. I studied math, so i can't claim perfection, but it looks really good. I'll be working on the doors tonight. Well worth the investment of time & $$. Ordered a brinkmann light today
06-11-13, 09:28 PM
#10
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About 22ple, the box says to go to their website for detailed instructions, go to their website. All I see on their website are pictures. Where can I find their detailed instructions?
06-13-13, 09:51 PM
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This is an incredible amount of work. With headphones and tunes, it's not disagreeable work, though. Done with 105. Only have the bumpers left with the 205. It is looking good.
06-14-13, 11:38 AM
#15
Originally Posted by www.Detailedimage.com
22ple Application Instructions:
-Ensure the surface is cleaned & polished.
-Remove all oil/polishes on the surface by doing an IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) wipe down. Use a mixture of 50% Isopropyl Alcohol with 50% distilled water.
-Please make sure the surfaces are cool and TOTALLY dry before applying the glass coat.
-Pour a small amount of glass coat liquid onto a foam applicator pad and apply in a straight line motion. Do not over-apply as it does not give you additional benefit, but it might make it difficult to remove.
-Make sure ALL surfaces are covered. You should then buff off the coating with a clean, lint-free microfiber towel within 3-5 minutes in normal room temperature. Should you encounter any dried coating, simply reapply another layer over it and buff. If an area becomes dry / tacky, then it's a sign that you allowed it to sit on the surface too long. We like to use 2 towels for removal. The first for main product removal, and then immediately go over it again with the second towel to ensure that you have completely removed all residue. As a good rule of thumb, apply 22ple to just 2 panels / sections at a time, and then proceed with residue removal. If you extend any more than this, the coating will dry too much and can become tacky.
-Cure time - Do not wash your car or expose the car to open weather element,rain, snow etc for around 8-12 hours.
-After this initial curing time, the car can be washed or driven per normal.
-The full curing time is about 5 days, at which time the full layer of the coat will be hardened and the surface will look its best.
-Do not reuse any applicator pads used to apply this coating. 22ple will dry and harden these applicator pads and if used again they could potentially mar the paint.
-Ensure the surface is cleaned & polished.
-Remove all oil/polishes on the surface by doing an IPA (Isopropyl Alcohol) wipe down. Use a mixture of 50% Isopropyl Alcohol with 50% distilled water.
-Please make sure the surfaces are cool and TOTALLY dry before applying the glass coat.
-Pour a small amount of glass coat liquid onto a foam applicator pad and apply in a straight line motion. Do not over-apply as it does not give you additional benefit, but it might make it difficult to remove.
-Make sure ALL surfaces are covered. You should then buff off the coating with a clean, lint-free microfiber towel within 3-5 minutes in normal room temperature. Should you encounter any dried coating, simply reapply another layer over it and buff. If an area becomes dry / tacky, then it's a sign that you allowed it to sit on the surface too long. We like to use 2 towels for removal. The first for main product removal, and then immediately go over it again with the second towel to ensure that you have completely removed all residue. As a good rule of thumb, apply 22ple to just 2 panels / sections at a time, and then proceed with residue removal. If you extend any more than this, the coating will dry too much and can become tacky.
-Cure time - Do not wash your car or expose the car to open weather element,rain, snow etc for around 8-12 hours.
-After this initial curing time, the car can be washed or driven per normal.
-The full curing time is about 5 days, at which time the full layer of the coat will be hardened and the surface will look its best.
-Do not reuse any applicator pads used to apply this coating. 22ple will dry and harden these applicator pads and if used again they could potentially mar the paint.
You may also find the information in THIS ARTICLE useful before applying the 22ple