FrstLXOwnr

Hi All,
I had bought new Lexus Rx 350 few weeks ago..I need suggestions on the detailing products (exterior and interior) which should be used. I searched this forum but couldn't get the basic detailing products required for Rx 350. Appreciate your response.

Thanks!

sydtoosic

if the car is brand new (2013 new) then i would buy some Inner Clean by chemical guys for the interior. and some wolfs shine and seal and wolfs hard body to protect your paint, wolfs nano shampoo and wolfs QD to maintain it. you might want to look into wolfs rim shield for your wheels. but that's just me. check out Detailers Domain for car care products, you can't go wrong.

jfelbab

I've posted this before so those who have already read it can skip over it, but this is a good primer to car care for those who like to keep their cars looking like new for years. I've added some video links for clarity.

I've developed my "best practices" over 50 years of detailing and they are constantly evolving as new products come to market. But, bear in mind that there are a lot of right answers and a lot of good products to choose from. This is what works for me and I'm of the opinion that you should find what works for you and stick with it. An important fact to remember, it is the process that is the key to stunning results and the products are secondary to the process.

Typically, every 2-4 months, I do a complete detail of my personal cars. The timing depends on the environment and how the car was kept. The detail entails a Wash, Clay, Polish and Wax or Sealant. Once I have done a complete detail, I maintain by washing every week and applying a gloss enhancer/booster product, Ultimate Quik Wax (UQW), after every wash.

Washing - An occasional run through a touch-free Laser Automatic Wash during periods of inclement weather won't damage the finish but I avoid any cloth automatic wash or washes that towel dry your car. I prefer washing it myself using a good car wash like Meguiar's NXT Tech Wash or Gold Class Wash.

I won't use a dishwashing detergent on my vehicles as it is not as good as a car wash. It is designed to remove grease from dishes, not dirt from delicate paint surface and it also will remove most wax or sealants. Dishwashing detergents also often contain emollients to keep your hands moist and while this might be nice for your hand is not so nice for your paint and rubber parts on your car.

I use two 5 gallon buckets with grit guards (one for soap and one for rinsing the wash mitts) and I measure the precise amount of car wash concentrate to use. Using too much detergent will shorten the life of the wax or sealant. Using too little will not deliver the needed lubricity and cleaning power.

I always wash my car in the shade when the paint is cool to the touch so that I don't develop water spots which can be difficult to remove.

I buy new sheepskin wash mitts every few months and keep them spotless. I don't use the same mitt on my wheels and rocker panels that I use to wash my paint. Older mitts get this dirtier task.

I dry my vehicle using an open hose and low pressure flow to sheet off as much water as I can then I gently blot dry with waffle-weave microfiber towels. I find these much better at absorbing water and not marring the paint than a chamois.

It is important to note that most swirls are introduced in the washing and drying process so this should be given the proper attention.

Here is a video link of proper washing technique:
I now inspect the paint to see what steps are needed to perfect the finish.

Clay - Even new cars can benefit from clay. I lightly draw my dry fingertips over the paint on my hood after it has been washed and dried. If it doesn't feel as smooth as glass, I clay. I prefer Meguiar's Smooth Surface Clay Kit but others (Mothers, Clay Magic, etc.) also make good kits. I like the Meg's kit because it comes with a premium Microfiber towel as well as a plastic case to store the unused clay.

I cut the clay bar into two pieces and put the unused clay back in the plastic box. If (when) I drop a piece of clay while using it, I throw it away and fetch one of the unused pieces. I use lots of the supplied Quik Detailer lube. I clay a 2' x 2' section at a time and test with my fingertips to insure that the contaminants have been removed. As the clay gets dirty I fold it and re-kneed it into a pad and continue the process.

I clay my paint then move on and clay the windows and finally the wheels. I toss the piece of clay when I have finished with the wheels as it is now quite contaminated and should not be used back on paint again.

Here is a video link of proper claying procedure:
Paint Cleaning and Polishing - I use a paint cleaner or a combination cleaner/polish product to remove stains and grime that is imbedded in the paint pores. I like Meguiar's #205 (Ultra Finishing Polish) for this but Meg's SwirlX is also fine if you prefer OTC products. If you have deeper marring you might try the more aggressive Meguiar's #105 (Ultra Cut Compound) or their Ultimate Compound product.

On a new car these cleaning and polishing steps might not be needed.

If you really want to keep your car looking showcar fresh then you probably should invest in a Dual Action (DA) polisher. Don't expect to polish paint with the cheap $30-$50 waxers on the market. They might apply wax ok but they don't have the power needed to correct defects in paint. A rotary buffer can damage your paint if you are not skilled in it's use and paint repair costs a lot of money. OTOH, it is almost impossible to harm your paint with a good DA orbital buffer and the proper pads. You can use a DA buffer to polish your paint frequently with little fear of removing too much paint. I use a Porter-Cable 7336 that is now 16 years old and still going strong. One of the best detailing tools I ever bought, it cuts my detailing time by a factor of 10 over polishing by hand.

Some DA's I'd recommend include the Meguiar's G110 V2, Griots Garage Polisher, and the Porter-Cable 7424XP.

I'd also highly recommend the new Meguiar's DA Microfiber Correction system to use with these DA's. It is now my go to product for polishing. These MF pads also come as a starter kit along with a backing plate and D300 Cutting Compound and D301 Finishing Wax/polish. They work quite well and are my first choice for new cars. Check with our supporting vendors.

Guide to polishing link:
Waxing/Sealing - Now that the finish is looking its best, I seal it to protect the look. It is important to note that a wax or sealant imparts surprisingly little to the overall look. Most of the appearance (85-90%) comes from the previous polishing steps in your preparation. Waxing or sealing just protects that look.

Here is a video Link on proper waxing:
It is commonly believed that if you live in a very hot area of the country, a polymer sealant may be a better choice than a carnauba wax. Tests show that pure carnauba wax begins to evaporate at 160° F, a temperature paint surfaces easily can reach. Most carnauba waxes are not pure carnauba but polymer sealants generally do have a much higher resistance to heat.

For sealants, I like Meguiar's #21 (Synthetic Sealant), NXT Tech Wax 2.0 or the newly released Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid Wax This new ULW product is really a sealant and can be used in direct sunlight, doesn't dry white, doesn't stain trim and can be used on vinyl and glass as well as paint. The wetlook shine delivered is as good as any other product I've used. If you prefer the warm glow of a carnauba by all means use it. Plan on applying carnaubas more frequently in hot climates to keep the protection intact. Meguiar's #26 (Hi-Tech Yellow Wax) or Gold Class Wax would be my choice for a carnauba that leaves a deep, warm glow to the paint.

A polymer sealant is a great product for wheels too. It resists brake dust and wheels stay clean longer and clean up easier. I like Meguiar's Quik Wheel Detailer for this purpose as it is extremely slippery and brake dust hardly sticks to it. I spray on a MF applicator and apply to the wheel and buff.

Leather Care - I use a leather cleaner and a protectant at least quarterly to keep it clean, supple and to prevent it from drying out and cracking. My favorite products for leather are Leather Masters Strong Leather Cleaner and Leather Masters Protection Cream.

When cleaning leather, I work on small sections at a time. I make sure to wipe off all traces of the detergent with a moist mf towel after cleaning. I then buff dry with another mf towel and wait about 10 minutes before applying the protection cream. I advise against using conditioner products on protected leather. They are, as a group, oily, waxy or slippery and they can't penetrate the leather as most auto leather is coated with a urethane paint. a conditioner usually leaves a film on the seats which acts to attract more dirt and dust. I prefer to use a protectant on the leather as it dries hard and does not attract or hold on to dirt. The LM Protection Cream leaves the leather dry and silky smooth. The best thing one can do for their leather is to keep it clean. I use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer on a weekly basis to remove any dirt and dust from my leather and also lay down UVA and UVB protection.

Other Interior cleaning - For interior detailing I use Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer. This is a product that does not add gloss or leave an oily residue. It leaves the interior looking like new. It doesn't make the dash glossy so that it produces glare. This product also has UV protection to slow aging and prevent sun damage and is nearly odorless.

Tires - It is important to clean the tires well prior to application of any dressing. I don't like chemical tire/wheel cleaners as they will strip any wax or sealant on the wheels. Instead, I use a stiff brush and car wash soap. I let the tires dry fully then apply a thin coat of tire dressing. I pay particular attention to keeping the coating thin and even. I spray it on a foam tire applicator and wipe down the tire with a clean terry cloth to remove excess. I carefully wipe out the tire sipes to minimize any potential for it to sling onto the paint.

I also occasionally clean the tires with a pressure washer that has a low power setting (600-800 psi). This device is also fairly useful for cleaning fender wells and the undercarriage.

Here is a video Link to proper tire care:
Maintenance - Finally, I maintain the exterior paint with a spray gloss booster/enhancer. There are several products here that work well. I use Meguiar's Ultimate Quik Wax (UQW). This is a Wipe On - Wipe Off (WOWO) product that applies in about 10 - 15 minutes and leaves the paint very slick with that freshly detailed look. The added slickness afforded by this approach greatly aids in preventing bugs and dirt from sticking to the paint and makes the car almost self cleaning. Another benefit of this product is that it can be applied to the whole vehicle. On glass it departs a RainX-like effect and is non streaking. On vinyl trim it darkens and provides long lasting protection with no runoff in the rain. It is great around emblems and seams as it doesn't dry white. It is non streaking and can be applied in direct sunlight. I use it weekly after every wash to maintain that showroom look.

I also keep a bottle of Quik Detailer and a few microfiber towels in the car to use to remove bird droppings, bugs or other messes as soon as they occur. Bugs and bird droppings will often permanently etch paint if not removed promptly.

As a last note, swirls and cobwebs are easier to prevent than to remove. Everything that touches the paint has the potential to cause marring so I take great care to use impeccably clean towels and applicators and minimize, as much as possible, any unnecessary contact with the paint.

Do invest in the highest quality mitts, toweling and applicators. These are key components in preventing swirls.

There are a number of good videos available on the web showing proper technique for these various steps. I'd suggest looking to AutoGeek and Meguiar's for these as they make the techniques easier to learn.

NinjaSocks

iTrader: (3)

Wow good info, I will apply this towards my thread I created about my recently aquired IS250, although a 2007used it only looks like a 1-2 yr old car.

FrstLXOwnr

Thanks a bunch!!
Will start applying these techniques and will keep the forum posted

rotor

Tnx's was looking for a different better product and basic info.

detailersdomain

iTrader: (3)

let me know how we can help.

Detailer's Domain

zmcgovern4

iTrader: (2)

Congrats on the car... the above posts have great info, but I didn't see anyone mention this 1 very important thing.

Please do not allow your dealer to "wash" or "detail" your car! It will ruin any of your hard work that you have spent maintaining your paint.

streetx

iTrader: (4)

Vouch for them

Great products and fast shipping!