karasha

iTrader: (5)

I need some help here. I am working on a 2004 Twilight Amethyst Pearl SC430 that seemingly has been washed with steel wool for the past 8 years.

So far I've:

• Washed using two bucket method and two grit guards [Meguiar's Gold Class with a soft lambswool pad]
• Dryed with Detailed Image's Waffle Weave Towel
• Clay Bar [Meguiar's Clay Bar Kit]

So, naturally, I start going at it with my polisher. I tape of sections and I begin trying to figure what's the best approach.

I first started with Poorboy's SSR1 with a white LCP. Did nothing.
Then I used Poorboy's SSR2.5 with an orange LCP followed with SSR1 with a white LCP. Made the paint look deeper, yet, really didn't rid the swirls.
Then I used Poorboy's SSR3 with an yellow LCP, followed by SSR2.5 with orange LCP and SSR1 with white LCP. Didn't really do much. Helped, but didn't eliminate.

I have been using my Griot's RO on speed 6. I have been going slow, putting about 5lbs of pressure but not enough to really slow the orbital down (I have my backing plate marked). I am doing 6 overlapping passes in my test boxes.

Any suggestions?

Here's the paint I'm working with. Sorry that I could only use my iPhone...

gyung

iTrader: (1)

That's weird - when you TRASHED and I saw the pictures, it doesn't look that bad.

I do see a faint line in the picture though, is that where you taped off? It might be the angle but it looks good there.

gyung

iTrader: (1)

For comparison, here is my 2002 Subaru that was in snow, parked outside, pooped on, etc. after Meguiars Ultimate Compound + a LC Orange or Yellow pad (forgot which)

Before


After

karasha

iTrader: (5)

Haha yeah yours was definitely trashed... For some reason though my pictures did not capture the trashiness of my paint... It looks similar to yours (not AS bad), complete with nasty holograms.

That wasn't a tape line. That was fresh from clay bar.

I did figure out a system using SSR2 instead of 2.5. I have been doing about 8 passes with the SSR3 and yellow LCP. Followed by SSR1. Not all of the swirls are coming out but about 90% are. I suppose without either using a rotary or wetsanding (no thanks!), it will be the best that I can do with what I have.

gyung

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a photo of the end result? That's a gorgeous color!

I got lazy and didn't go back to the deeper scratches, I settled at "pretty good", but yeah some will need a much more aggressive method.

karasha

iTrader: (5)

Thanks gyung! No I do not because I am still working on it (all through the night). Tomorrow I will update with pictures

I am a perfectionist, so if I can't get "perfect" then I tend to not do it at all -_- hahaha. There is no "pretty good" for me.

CGDetail

hello there. can you tell me what color pads you have(if possible name the brand as well please), what kinda of compounds,polish,finishing polish you have in your arsenal as well?

karasha

iTrader: (5)

My arsenal:

5.5" Pads (All Lake Country Pads bought from Detailed Image): Yellow, Orange, Green, White, Blue, Black

Compounds/Polish/Finishing Polish: Poorboy's Super Swirl Remover 3, 2.5, 2 and 1

I know Menzerna compounds/polishes are what many use... that or the Meguiar twins... but for some reason I just felt comfortable going with PB's.

I do want to update:: I tweaked my swirl removal to PB's SSR3 on a yellow pad @ speed 6 on my Griot's RO. Followed by PB's SSR2 on a green pad @ speed 6 then finished with PB's SSR1 on a white pad @ speed 5. Really ended up cleaning the paint nicely and removing the haze from the SSR3.

My only complaint is that the PB's compound/polishes leave behind quite an "oily" residue. This can make it difficult to see if the swirls are really gone, but that can be taken care of with a wipe down of a dilution of alcohol (~12%).

gyung

iTrader: (1)

I use the 106FA (SF4000), Meguiars Ultimate Compound and also the Zaino PC I think it's called.

Reading the label on the 106, it scared me to use it - I use gloves and a disposable mask haha, but it gives pretty amazing results.

Anyway once you are done, let's see it!

CGDetail

I just checked this swirl remover cut chart and PB ssr3 is in the same cut level as M105. Link for reference.
http://www.auto-geek.net/charts/wax-...art-master.htm

If ssr3 and a yellow pad could not achieve 85-90% correction then you need to move up the aggressiveness on product, pad, or a combination of both. I have not used the PB line yet so I can't really give you anymore insight about your situation. As for the oilyness, Meg Ultimate compound does the same. After each step you have to double check using IPA or Carpro Eraser, or something equivalent to strip everything off the surface to ensure you are taking out the swirls and not filling them in by fillers or silicone.

DunWkg

If something equal to Meguiar's M105 isn't cutting it on Lexus paint, you may need to go the other direction.
http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums...Delicate-Paint

I've started using the CarPro product rather than alcohol, I really like it.

.

karasha

iTrader: (5)

Yup, I have that chart bookmarked (VERY helpful). That's why I was a bit stumped because SSR3 is, in retrospect, quite an intense compound. And paired with Lake Country's Yellow Pad (which is the most intensive cutting pad before going over to wool)... I didn't see how I could really get that more aggressive. I know there is more aggressive, but sheesh!

I do have about half a bottle of Carpro Eraser.. and for some awful reason it seemed to be leaving behind a residue (?) So I'm going to try a diluted alcohol wipe down and see if that helps any.

Thanks for the help guys. I really appreciate it.

gyung

iTrader: (1)

You know, I think you car is just nervous. It's sweating

karasha

iTrader: (5)

This was a brand new yellow Lake Country Pad... I only got to use it on the hood, front bumper and a fender and it pooped out on me.... I don't have an extra yellow one.

gyung

iTrader: (1)

That sucks, did you get it from Autogeek by any chance? They have great customer service, worth a shot.