DIY Rattle Can paint job!
03-28-12, 02:32 PM
#1
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: iowa
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DIY Rattle Can paint job!
So since i haven't been able to do anything to my car for the last past 3-4 months, i thought i do a little project of painting my own LIP again since its been so nice out in the midwest. Please don't take me as a professional painter because iam far from it but these steps that i did, did help me make my paint job look professional. So let the DIY began!
Things you'll need is:
300-400 grit Sand paper
1000-2000 grit Sand paper
Primer/ Primer Filler
Paint that Matches your color of car
Clear Coat
Rubbing compound
Polishing pad or a buffer
So what i did first is took off my lip off my car and just sanded it down with 300-400 grit paper intill all the scratches and paint was smooth. I didn't go down all the way down to the fiber glass, i just sanded it down enough that the primer will catch onto the paint. Rub or glaze your hand across the lip/ item to see if everything smooth, if not keep on sanding
Once everything looks good with sanding, go ahead and wash down your product your painting. Let it dry for atleast 30-1 hr or use a blow dryer to get into all the lil tight space that water may be hiding. Once all the drying is done, its time for the primer/ primer filler. The primer filler will fill in the small chips and scratches you may have on your product or you can just use bondo filler as well but my chips were small so primer filler did the job. Make sure to shake the can well before painting, Hold the can about 6-10 inches away from the product and spray left to right. First coat of primer should be a light and the rest should be more heavier. I did about 3 coats.
Let the primer dry for about 2-6 hrs depending on what kind of primer you used. I always have a issue with getting stuff on the primer so i went ahead and wet sanded it with 1000 grit sand paper and soapy water to get all the dust off. It doesn't take much to take off the dust so you wont have to wet sand much.
So after everything looks good, its time for the Base Coat. I have a friend works at Sherwin Williams automotive and he got the paint mixed up for me and put into a can. Due to mother nature and etc your paint maybe different from how it is when it was brand new. It may have gotten lighter from sun so make sure you choose the right match for your car.
So just like how you did the primer put on a light Coat of your base and then try to cover most of the area on your item with out putting to much on at one time, eventually you'll cover it all. Depending on temp and your paint you purchased, allow it to fully dry each time you put a coat on otherwise you'll get runs and then your ****ED. After you think you have enough paint on for your base, let it dry for about 6hrs or over night. I used my one whole rattle can and it had about 7oz of paint and etc in it.
Your base coat is going to look like shiiiiiiiiizzzz and it will probably have orange peel. Leave it and spray clear coat first.
Once your base coat is dry, its time for your Clear Coat. I used clear that my friend gave me but i think all clear should work fine. From what i read, your suppose to spray on heavy amounts of clear so dont be shy, just follow the same procedures as you did with the primer and base coat. I used one whole can.
I let the Clear dry for a FULL 24 hrs, some may say let dry for 2-3 months but 24 hrs is fine for me. After the Clear is dry, its time for Wet Sanding, I used 1000 grit paper. I sanded down my lip intill it was a dull look. You'll know your done Wet Sanding a area once you see no more orange peel. You'll know you wet sanded to much once you see your soapy water turn the color of your paint. Alot of people go over the 1000 grit paper with 2000 paper but thats only because it'll be easier to buff it out. Onces your finish your product should look dull like this
Time for buffing! I got this buffer from autozone last year, works great but i wish i had the professional one with different speeds and pads. I purchased the Meguiars compound at advance auto parts but iam pretty sure you can get it at any auto store. If you dont have a buffer, then you can purchase a polishing pad and do it by hand. Buff intill you can no longer see any fine scratches from wet sanding.
Eventually you'll see results. You'll see faster results from a buffer then doing it by hand
Almost all done!
Perfect!!
let me know what you guys think and if you guys have questions, let me know!
Things you'll need is:
300-400 grit Sand paper
1000-2000 grit Sand paper
Primer/ Primer Filler
Paint that Matches your color of car
Clear Coat
Rubbing compound
Polishing pad or a buffer
So what i did first is took off my lip off my car and just sanded it down with 300-400 grit paper intill all the scratches and paint was smooth. I didn't go down all the way down to the fiber glass, i just sanded it down enough that the primer will catch onto the paint. Rub or glaze your hand across the lip/ item to see if everything smooth, if not keep on sanding
Once everything looks good with sanding, go ahead and wash down your product your painting. Let it dry for atleast 30-1 hr or use a blow dryer to get into all the lil tight space that water may be hiding. Once all the drying is done, its time for the primer/ primer filler. The primer filler will fill in the small chips and scratches you may have on your product or you can just use bondo filler as well but my chips were small so primer filler did the job. Make sure to shake the can well before painting, Hold the can about 6-10 inches away from the product and spray left to right. First coat of primer should be a light and the rest should be more heavier. I did about 3 coats.
Let the primer dry for about 2-6 hrs depending on what kind of primer you used. I always have a issue with getting stuff on the primer so i went ahead and wet sanded it with 1000 grit sand paper and soapy water to get all the dust off. It doesn't take much to take off the dust so you wont have to wet sand much.
So after everything looks good, its time for the Base Coat. I have a friend works at Sherwin Williams automotive and he got the paint mixed up for me and put into a can. Due to mother nature and etc your paint maybe different from how it is when it was brand new. It may have gotten lighter from sun so make sure you choose the right match for your car.
So just like how you did the primer put on a light Coat of your base and then try to cover most of the area on your item with out putting to much on at one time, eventually you'll cover it all. Depending on temp and your paint you purchased, allow it to fully dry each time you put a coat on otherwise you'll get runs and then your ****ED. After you think you have enough paint on for your base, let it dry for about 6hrs or over night. I used my one whole rattle can and it had about 7oz of paint and etc in it.
Your base coat is going to look like shiiiiiiiiizzzz and it will probably have orange peel. Leave it and spray clear coat first.
Once your base coat is dry, its time for your Clear Coat. I used clear that my friend gave me but i think all clear should work fine. From what i read, your suppose to spray on heavy amounts of clear so dont be shy, just follow the same procedures as you did with the primer and base coat. I used one whole can.
I let the Clear dry for a FULL 24 hrs, some may say let dry for 2-3 months but 24 hrs is fine for me. After the Clear is dry, its time for Wet Sanding, I used 1000 grit paper. I sanded down my lip intill it was a dull look. You'll know your done Wet Sanding a area once you see no more orange peel. You'll know you wet sanded to much once you see your soapy water turn the color of your paint. Alot of people go over the 1000 grit paper with 2000 paper but thats only because it'll be easier to buff it out. Onces your finish your product should look dull like this
Time for buffing! I got this buffer from autozone last year, works great but i wish i had the professional one with different speeds and pads. I purchased the Meguiars compound at advance auto parts but iam pretty sure you can get it at any auto store. If you dont have a buffer, then you can purchase a polishing pad and do it by hand. Buff intill you can no longer see any fine scratches from wet sanding.
Eventually you'll see results. You'll see faster results from a buffer then doing it by hand
Almost all done!
Perfect!!
let me know what you guys think and if you guys have questions, let me know!
03-28-12, 04:45 PM
#3
well ill be DAMNEDD....at first i was thinkin...man this will look like crap...but at the end, SHIET I couldn't even tell if it was professionally or a back yard job....good job man. Maybe i'll do this with my lip..
by the way, Can you let us know what primer did you exactly use and where to get it? my car is white, so that primer will definitely help me out..
by the way, Can you let us know what primer did you exactly use and where to get it? my car is white, so that primer will definitely help me out..
03-28-12, 05:56 PM
#5
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: iowa
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
@Mike813 and 97-SC300, Thanks alot!! I appreciate it
hahaha thanks, ya i did some research before i did the project and it came out so well, i had to make a DIY for those who are like me and do it them selves. Its worth doing it at least once ya know?? The worst thing that'll happen is that it wont come out as well as you thought, you can always get it fixed by a professional. The primer filler i use was from wal-mart, i actually threw it away so i dont know what it was called but i would rather much get the Dupli-Color 8oz Primer filler from Autozone or any auto store. I have better results with Dupli-Color and it sprays on well too
well ill be DAMNEDD....at first i was thinkin...man this will look like crap...but at the end, SHIET I couldn't even tell if it was professionally or a back yard job....good job man. Maybe i'll do this with my lip..
by the way, Can you let us know what primer did you exactly use and where to get it? my car is white, so that primer will definitely help me out..
by the way, Can you let us know what primer did you exactly use and where to get it? my car is white, so that primer will definitely help me out..
Trending Topics
03-28-12, 06:58 PM
#8
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: iowa
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
03-28-12, 10:51 PM
#14
Driver School Candidate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: iowa
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Ideal temperature to do the paint job is on a nice 60-80 degree day, Colder days may take the paint to dry longer than usual. As you can see on same pics, i got my lip chillin out side, i like to bake it in the sun and it seems to dry faster as well.