what is the best leather cleaner product out there ?
03-30-13, 06:43 PM
#62
I had been using lexus brand leather cleaner and revitalizer. I recently bought some leather masters cleaner foam and revitalizer and detailed the interior of my IS350 today. I'm pretty impressed by the stuff. I stinks compared to the lexus brand, but it doesn't leave any greasy residue. The leather felt softer as compared to the Lexus brand. We'll see over the next week or two how it holds up.
03-31-13, 05:24 AM
#63
Lead Lap
Why do some people refuse to use Leatherique? It will clean those seats without excessive abrasion or soap. Obviously it can't repair any cracks or damage to the leather, but if you apply the rejuvinating oil and let it sit for a day (the warmer the car, the better it works) then finish with Prestine Clean, your seats will look 10 times better.
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post7244854l
https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...l#post7244854l
Leatherique warn that some Japanese cars have leather protected by a coating which may prevent the Rejuvenating Oil from working and cause patches of discolouration. Suggest that anyone check with them first before using this product.
Yes I am aware that many members have used it with no issues but they must have issued this warning for a reason.
I personally use Bowdens Own Leather Products (dont think they are available outside Australia) but there are heaps of great products available and it comes own to personal preference in the end.
08-14-14, 08:26 AM
#66
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Sorry for bringing this thread from the dead. But I rather ask here then start a new thread. This is 2014 so I just wanted to ask what is the best leather cleaner out there? Just deciding to clean my leather since its 8 years old and want to clean it without doing any harm. And also is it safe to use Leatherique cleaner and then put LM protectant on top? Because doing some research it seems both products are very good in cleaning and restoring leather. I have some wrinkles on the seats. The interior is or was tan and now looks beige. Its a 2006 Lexus IS 250. Thanks for any help or input
09-03-14, 06:50 AM
#68
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How to clean leather properly
The best thing you can do to preserve your leather is to keep it clean. Wipe it down weekly and use a cleaner monthly.
Re: Using conditioners on modern protected leather.
Conditioners were designed for a different type of leather and are not a good choice for modern protected leather.
First, understand that you are not conditioning your leather, rather, you are applying an oily or waxy film to paint. Your leather is painted and anything you do to the leather is, in reality, just being done to the painted coating. Paint doesn't need feeding or conditioning.
Conditioners, in general, leave behind a film on that painted surface that attracts and holds dirt and dust which causes faster soiling and added abrasion wear as you slide in and out. If you have older, cracked or chipped leather, a conditioner will seep into the leather fibers and loosen the bond of the topcoat surrounding the crack which will make the crack worse. It will also hold dirt and dust in those cracks and make them more noticeable.
Some report how conditioners made their leather softer. Leather is made soft in the tanning process. Nothing you can lay on a painted topcoat will make the leather softer than it was originally. That said, leather that has dried out will be stiffer than properly hydrated leather. The missing ingredient that makes leather get stiffer is moisture, not oils, waxes, silicones or fats. I would suggest that if you think your leather feels softer after using a conditioner one of two things have occurred. The moisture level contained in the conditioner evaporated and was picked up by the leather fibers due to the higher relative humidity in the vicinity of the leather. A wipe down with a wrung out cotton towel would accomplish the same softening of dry leather. Secondly, if the hand of the leather feels softer after a conditioner, it most likely is due to the film deposited on the surface of the topcoat giving that feel. Leather should not feel grabby or slippery. Go to a new car dealership and feel the leather of a brand new showroom car. That is the way your leather should feel; soft, dry and silky smooth.
What works better than conditioners on protected leather is a water-based fluorocarbon leather protectant. Also, conditioners won't prevent dye transfer while protectants excel at this. Protectants leave the surface looking like new with no added sheen, or grabbiness so often left by conditioning products.
If you have not tried a protectant for your leather give it a try. I believe you and your leather will love it.
Re: Using conditioners on modern protected leather.
Conditioners were designed for a different type of leather and are not a good choice for modern protected leather.
First, understand that you are not conditioning your leather, rather, you are applying an oily or waxy film to paint. Your leather is painted and anything you do to the leather is, in reality, just being done to the painted coating. Paint doesn't need feeding or conditioning.
Conditioners, in general, leave behind a film on that painted surface that attracts and holds dirt and dust which causes faster soiling and added abrasion wear as you slide in and out. If you have older, cracked or chipped leather, a conditioner will seep into the leather fibers and loosen the bond of the topcoat surrounding the crack which will make the crack worse. It will also hold dirt and dust in those cracks and make them more noticeable.
Some report how conditioners made their leather softer. Leather is made soft in the tanning process. Nothing you can lay on a painted topcoat will make the leather softer than it was originally. That said, leather that has dried out will be stiffer than properly hydrated leather. The missing ingredient that makes leather get stiffer is moisture, not oils, waxes, silicones or fats. I would suggest that if you think your leather feels softer after using a conditioner one of two things have occurred. The moisture level contained in the conditioner evaporated and was picked up by the leather fibers due to the higher relative humidity in the vicinity of the leather. A wipe down with a wrung out cotton towel would accomplish the same softening of dry leather. Secondly, if the hand of the leather feels softer after a conditioner, it most likely is due to the film deposited on the surface of the topcoat giving that feel. Leather should not feel grabby or slippery. Go to a new car dealership and feel the leather of a brand new showroom car. That is the way your leather should feel; soft, dry and silky smooth.
What works better than conditioners on protected leather is a water-based fluorocarbon leather protectant. Also, conditioners won't prevent dye transfer while protectants excel at this. Protectants leave the surface looking like new with no added sheen, or grabbiness so often left by conditioning products.
If you have not tried a protectant for your leather give it a try. I believe you and your leather will love it.
09-03-14, 06:52 AM
#69
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How to clean leather properly
I don't like them.
Few appreciate or understand protected leather, especially that used in automobiles. When you are looking at your protected leather you are looking at paint. When you attempt to condition your protected leather you are really attempting to condition paint. Paint doesn't benefit from conditioners.
I've mentioned here in the forum, more than a few times, that conditioning products were designed for a different type of leather. Conditioners leave a film on protected leather that only hastens the accumulation of dirt. Conditioners do not penetrate the urethane painted top coat. True, some of the H2O in these conditioners evaporates and raises the relative humidity surrounding the leather which is good but a damp wipedown will do this as well and not leave that dirt grabbing film.
Leather conditioners do nothing to prevent stains and dye transfers. If your leather has developed cracks, using an oily conditioner will degrade the adhesion of the painted surface around the crack and make the damage worse.
The oils, silicones, or waxes contained in conditioners are not beneficial to protected leather.
Conditioners are in many ways like a glaze for your car's paint. They are oily and leave a film that looks nice for a couple days until it evaporates. They do not penetrate the paint. The steel fender under the paint is not somehow conditioned. You wouldn't just apply a glaze to your paint for protection. You'd apply a sealant or a wax for that. In the case of protected leather, you want to protect it and wax would make it shiny, slippery and would wear off quickly as you slide in and out, so you are left with a sealant type of protection. Sealants for leather are called leather protectors and are a water-based fluorocarbon products. These protectants do just what you would expect. They dry after application, leave no oily film and don't rub off easily. They don't make the leather shiny, grabby or slippery. They do protect against stains and dye transfer.
Many people like the term conditioner and think that their leather must either be fed or need conditioning. This is false concept based on older leather types. Protected leather has been tanned and treated in the manufacturing process to be soft and supple. These painted split hides have received in the tanning process, all the conditioning, fat liquoring and collagens they need at the fiber level to remain soft throughout their life. The hide is painted to provide a uniform color and grain pattern. If your leather seems to have become hard, it is due to moisture loss and moisture will replenish the softness. Not oils or fat liquors, neither of which could penetrate the topcoat.
In any case, an oily conditioner will;
1. either not penetrate the painted topcoat and sit on the leather leaving a sticky or grabby film that attracts dirt which increases abrasion. In some cases conditioners contain wax or silicone making your seats shiny and slippery.
2. if this oily mixture gets through cracks in the topcoat, it will negatively impact the bond the topcoat has with the leather causing a more rapid decline in the leather coating.
So how do you rehydrate painted leather? Through repeated and regular wipe-downs with a moist towel. Moisture will be re-absorbed by the leather fibers via higher humidity levels surrounding the leather. Water on the painted surface won't directly be absorbed through the topcoat into the leather but the raised humidity level will cause the leather to take up moisture. Moisture is the lifeblood of protected leather.
Lest you think this is just my opinion, let me suggest that you do your homework. Contact some leather industry restoration professionals and ask these questions. Don't just rely on my comments, verify these comments with other leather professionals. Try not to believe everything product sales hype tells you. Snake oil salesmen have been around for ever and you need to go to the source to find the truth.
Few appreciate or understand protected leather, especially that used in automobiles. When you are looking at your protected leather you are looking at paint. When you attempt to condition your protected leather you are really attempting to condition paint. Paint doesn't benefit from conditioners.
I've mentioned here in the forum, more than a few times, that conditioning products were designed for a different type of leather. Conditioners leave a film on protected leather that only hastens the accumulation of dirt. Conditioners do not penetrate the urethane painted top coat. True, some of the H2O in these conditioners evaporates and raises the relative humidity surrounding the leather which is good but a damp wipedown will do this as well and not leave that dirt grabbing film.
Leather conditioners do nothing to prevent stains and dye transfers. If your leather has developed cracks, using an oily conditioner will degrade the adhesion of the painted surface around the crack and make the damage worse.
The oils, silicones, or waxes contained in conditioners are not beneficial to protected leather.
Conditioners are in many ways like a glaze for your car's paint. They are oily and leave a film that looks nice for a couple days until it evaporates. They do not penetrate the paint. The steel fender under the paint is not somehow conditioned. You wouldn't just apply a glaze to your paint for protection. You'd apply a sealant or a wax for that. In the case of protected leather, you want to protect it and wax would make it shiny, slippery and would wear off quickly as you slide in and out, so you are left with a sealant type of protection. Sealants for leather are called leather protectors and are a water-based fluorocarbon products. These protectants do just what you would expect. They dry after application, leave no oily film and don't rub off easily. They don't make the leather shiny, grabby or slippery. They do protect against stains and dye transfer.
Many people like the term conditioner and think that their leather must either be fed or need conditioning. This is false concept based on older leather types. Protected leather has been tanned and treated in the manufacturing process to be soft and supple. These painted split hides have received in the tanning process, all the conditioning, fat liquoring and collagens they need at the fiber level to remain soft throughout their life. The hide is painted to provide a uniform color and grain pattern. If your leather seems to have become hard, it is due to moisture loss and moisture will replenish the softness. Not oils or fat liquors, neither of which could penetrate the topcoat.
In any case, an oily conditioner will;
1. either not penetrate the painted topcoat and sit on the leather leaving a sticky or grabby film that attracts dirt which increases abrasion. In some cases conditioners contain wax or silicone making your seats shiny and slippery.
2. if this oily mixture gets through cracks in the topcoat, it will negatively impact the bond the topcoat has with the leather causing a more rapid decline in the leather coating.
So how do you rehydrate painted leather? Through repeated and regular wipe-downs with a moist towel. Moisture will be re-absorbed by the leather fibers via higher humidity levels surrounding the leather. Water on the painted surface won't directly be absorbed through the topcoat into the leather but the raised humidity level will cause the leather to take up moisture. Moisture is the lifeblood of protected leather.
Lest you think this is just my opinion, let me suggest that you do your homework. Contact some leather industry restoration professionals and ask these questions. Don't just rely on my comments, verify these comments with other leather professionals. Try not to believe everything product sales hype tells you. Snake oil salesmen have been around for ever and you need to go to the source to find the truth.
09-03-14, 08:24 AM
#70
For cleaning protected leather, I use the CHAT method.
C = Cleaner
H = Heat
A = Agitation
T = Time (as in dwell time)
I prefer Leather Master's Strong Leather Cleaner. I typically dilute this 50/50 with moderately hot water and apply it with a foam applicator. I squeeze the applicator several times to work up a thick foam and then gently agitate a small area at a time. I'll let this cleaner solution dwell for a minute or two, but not dry, then wipe up with a white, 100% cotton towel. I'll inspect the towel to see if the soiling has been removed. I'll repeat until the towel shows no soil being removed. For stubborn soiling, I'll not dilute the cleaner and I may use a soft nylon brush for really tough soiling. Once I'm satisfied that the leather is clean, I'll gently buff it dry with another cotton towel. It is good to keep in mind that we are cleaning paint at this time and not leather as the protected leather is just that, painted.
Next, I'll apply a leather protectant. I prefer to use Leather Masters Leather Protection Cream. It is a water-based fluorocarbon protectant. Being water based it allows the protected leather to continue to accept hydration through transpiration, yet will prevent dye transfer from staining the leathers top-coat. After letting the leather air dry for around 20 minutes after cleaning, I'll apply a thin, even coat of the protectant with a foam applicator. I'll do the entire vehicle and then gently buff with another cotton towel. The result is clean and silky smooth leather.
For weekly routine maintenance, I'll vacuum the protected leather and then wipe it down with a wrung out cotton wash cloth, or one moistened with Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer which adds some UV protection. This keeps the leather clean and properly hydrated.
04-20-15, 09:19 AM
#71
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I use Lexol leather cleaner to clean my leather car seats it works pretty good. The main reason i use it cause it leaves no oily residue behind making the cleaning process easy. So my suggestion definitely would be lexol.
05-07-16, 04:38 PM
#72
Racer
There are a number of products that will do the job. I'll mention what I prefer, but there are a lot of products to choose from. As a really smart detailer once told me; "Find products you like and use them often". Good advice!
For cleaning protected leather, I use the CHAT method.
C = Cleaner
H = Heat
A = Agitation
T = Time (as in dwell time)
I prefer Leather Master's Strong Leather Cleaner. I typically dilute this 50/50 with moderately hot water and apply it with a foam applicator. I squeeze the applicator several times to work up a thick foam and then gently agitate a small area at a time. I'll let this cleaner solution dwell for a minute or two, but not dry, then wipe up with a white, 100% cotton towel. I'll inspect the towel to see if the soiling has been removed. I'll repeat until the towel shows no soil being removed. For stubborn soiling, I'll not dilute the cleaner and I may use a soft nylon brush for really tough soiling. Once I'm satisfied that the leather is clean, I'll gently buff it dry with another cotton towel. It is good to keep in mind that we are cleaning paint at this time and not leather as the protected leather is just that, painted.
Next, I'll apply a leather protectant. I prefer to use Leather Masters Leather Protection Cream. It is a water-based fluorocarbon protectant. Being water based it allows the protected leather to continue to accept hydration through transpiration, yet will prevent dye transfer from staining the leathers top-coat. After letting the leather air dry for around 20 minutes after cleaning, I'll apply a thin, even coat of the protectant with a foam applicator. I'll do the entire vehicle and then gently buff with another cotton towel. The result is clean and silky smooth leather.
For weekly routine maintenance, I'll vacuum the protected leather and then wipe it down with a wrung out cotton wash cloth, or one moistened with Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer which adds some UV protection. This keeps the leather clean and properly hydrated.
For cleaning protected leather, I use the CHAT method.
C = Cleaner
H = Heat
A = Agitation
T = Time (as in dwell time)
I prefer Leather Master's Strong Leather Cleaner. I typically dilute this 50/50 with moderately hot water and apply it with a foam applicator. I squeeze the applicator several times to work up a thick foam and then gently agitate a small area at a time. I'll let this cleaner solution dwell for a minute or two, but not dry, then wipe up with a white, 100% cotton towel. I'll inspect the towel to see if the soiling has been removed. I'll repeat until the towel shows no soil being removed. For stubborn soiling, I'll not dilute the cleaner and I may use a soft nylon brush for really tough soiling. Once I'm satisfied that the leather is clean, I'll gently buff it dry with another cotton towel. It is good to keep in mind that we are cleaning paint at this time and not leather as the protected leather is just that, painted.
Next, I'll apply a leather protectant. I prefer to use Leather Masters Leather Protection Cream. It is a water-based fluorocarbon protectant. Being water based it allows the protected leather to continue to accept hydration through transpiration, yet will prevent dye transfer from staining the leathers top-coat. After letting the leather air dry for around 20 minutes after cleaning, I'll apply a thin, even coat of the protectant with a foam applicator. I'll do the entire vehicle and then gently buff with another cotton towel. The result is clean and silky smooth leather.
For weekly routine maintenance, I'll vacuum the protected leather and then wipe it down with a wrung out cotton wash cloth, or one moistened with Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer which adds some UV protection. This keeps the leather clean and properly hydrated.
I ordered the Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and am awaiting delivery of the Masters Leather Protection Cream. My problem is that the driver-side door handle shows some grime and I can't seem to clean it off with the Quik Interior Detailer. I do like that the Meguiar's product doesn't leave an oily residue but it didn't really clean anything off either. We have the Modern Luxury so there's some leather on the door but the handles are a soft rubber/plastic. What would you recommend I use to clean those areas?
I read about an old detailer's trick of using Soft Scrub with a soft bristle brush. Although harsh, it did do an amazing job cleaning and brightening up the gray leather and door handles on a Toyota Sienna. However, I don't want to risk ruining our LS430 and am searching for additional advice and tips from more knowledgeable members. Thank you.
05-07-16, 06:26 PM
#73
jfelbab, we just purchased a 2006 LS430. I have been trying to educate myself about proper leather care and enjoy your posts very much. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
I ordered the Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and am awaiting delivery of the Masters Leather Protection Cream. My problem is that the driver-side door handle shows some grime and I can't seem to clean it off with the Quik Interior Detailer. I do like that the Meguiar's product doesn't leave an oily residue but it didn't really clean anything off either. We have the Modern Luxury so there's some leather on the door but the handles are a soft rubber/plastic. What would you recommend I use to clean those areas?
I read about an old detailer's trick of using Soft Scrub with a soft bristle brush. Although harsh, it did do an amazing job cleaning and brightening up the gray leather and door handles on a Toyota Sienna. However, I don't want to risk ruining our LS430 and am searching for additional advice and tips from more knowledgeable members. Thank you.
I ordered the Meguiar's Quik Interior Detailer and am awaiting delivery of the Masters Leather Protection Cream. My problem is that the driver-side door handle shows some grime and I can't seem to clean it off with the Quik Interior Detailer. I do like that the Meguiar's product doesn't leave an oily residue but it didn't really clean anything off either. We have the Modern Luxury so there's some leather on the door but the handles are a soft rubber/plastic. What would you recommend I use to clean those areas?
I read about an old detailer's trick of using Soft Scrub with a soft bristle brush. Although harsh, it did do an amazing job cleaning and brightening up the gray leather and door handles on a Toyota Sienna. However, I don't want to risk ruining our LS430 and am searching for additional advice and tips from more knowledgeable members. Thank you.
05-07-16, 06:34 PM
#74
Racer
You can use Leather Master Leather Cleaner (my personal favorite) or you could use Woolite diluted 10 parts hot water to 1 part Woolite. Again, I recommend the CHAT method which is gentle but effective. The Meg's QID is a very gentle cleaner. Gentle enough that I use it on NAV screens and gauges as well. For serious deep cleaning, I rely on Leather Master. I'd not use anything abrasive as it may cause damage. The LM Protection Cream will make these areas much easier to maintain.
05-07-16, 07:59 PM
#75
Racer
You can use Leather Master Leather Cleaner (my personal favorite) or you could use Woolite diluted 10 parts hot water to 1 part Woolite. Again, I recommend the CHAT method which is gentle but effective. The Meg's QID is a very gentle cleaner. Gentle enough that I use it on NAV screens and gauges as well. For serious deep cleaning, I rely on Leather Master. I'd not use anything abrasive as it may cause damage. The LM Protection Cream will make these areas much easier to maintain.