How To Remove Wrinkle From Leather Seats
01-27-12, 11:34 PM
#1
Lead Lap
Thread Starter
How To Remove Wrinkle From Leather Seats
Has anyone ever tried this to remove wrinkle from their leather seats?
How to Use a Hair Dryer to Remove Wrinkles on Leather Seats
By Joshua Duvauchelle,
Leather seats are often seen as a sign of luxury, especially in a car. Regardless of location, a leather seat can occasionally get wrinkles that detract from its appearance. Wrinkles might be a sign that your leather is suffering from environmental stress or damage. Fortunately, you can remove wrinkles without sending the seat to a dry cleaner or professional leather maintenance provider. Using a hair dryer to remove wrinkles on a leather seat can quickly restore the leather's appearance and save you money.
Related Searches:
Leather ConditionerT3 Hair Dryer
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Instructions
Things You'll Need
Clean cloth Leather cleaner (or mild soap and water) Leather conditioner solution Hair blow dryer
1
Wipe down the leather seat with mild soap and water or a specifically formulated leather cleaner. Use the cloth to rinse and dry the leather seat so that no soap or cleaner residue remains on the surface of the leather.
2
Inspect the leather seats and find all the places that have wrinkles.
3
Turn on the hair blow dryer to its hottest, strongest setting.
4
Position the end of the dryer eight to 10 inches away from the wrinkled leather surface. Move the end back and forth so that the hot air from the dryer is not hitting a single portion of the leather for too long. This prevents the dryer from burning the leather.
5
Wait for the wrinkles to disappear. The heat from the hot air in the dryer will gradually shrink the leather, tightening its surface and effectively removing the wrinkles. Hair blow dryers operate at a lower temperature than the professional heat guns that are typically used to remove leather wrinkles. As a result, it might be several minutes before the wrinkles are completely gone.
6
Apply a light coat of premium leather conditioner and work it into the surface of the leather. This helps to protect the leather from the environment, and it might prevent or minimize future wrinkles. Buff lightly with a cloth. A high-quality leather conditioner might cost slightly more than some other brands, but it has less wax and can extend the life of your leather. Popular leather conditioners include Mothers Leather Conditioner and Meguiar's Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner and Conditioner. Such products may be purchased at your local automotive store or online.
How to Use a Hair Dryer to Remove Wrinkles on Leather Seats
By Joshua Duvauchelle,
Leather seats are often seen as a sign of luxury, especially in a car. Regardless of location, a leather seat can occasionally get wrinkles that detract from its appearance. Wrinkles might be a sign that your leather is suffering from environmental stress or damage. Fortunately, you can remove wrinkles without sending the seat to a dry cleaner or professional leather maintenance provider. Using a hair dryer to remove wrinkles on a leather seat can quickly restore the leather's appearance and save you money.
Related Searches:
Leather ConditionerT3 Hair Dryer
Difficulty: Moderately Easy
Instructions
Things You'll Need
Clean cloth Leather cleaner (or mild soap and water) Leather conditioner solution Hair blow dryer
1
Wipe down the leather seat with mild soap and water or a specifically formulated leather cleaner. Use the cloth to rinse and dry the leather seat so that no soap or cleaner residue remains on the surface of the leather.
2
Inspect the leather seats and find all the places that have wrinkles.
3
Turn on the hair blow dryer to its hottest, strongest setting.
4
Position the end of the dryer eight to 10 inches away from the wrinkled leather surface. Move the end back and forth so that the hot air from the dryer is not hitting a single portion of the leather for too long. This prevents the dryer from burning the leather.
5
Wait for the wrinkles to disappear. The heat from the hot air in the dryer will gradually shrink the leather, tightening its surface and effectively removing the wrinkles. Hair blow dryers operate at a lower temperature than the professional heat guns that are typically used to remove leather wrinkles. As a result, it might be several minutes before the wrinkles are completely gone.
6
Apply a light coat of premium leather conditioner and work it into the surface of the leather. This helps to protect the leather from the environment, and it might prevent or minimize future wrinkles. Buff lightly with a cloth. A high-quality leather conditioner might cost slightly more than some other brands, but it has less wax and can extend the life of your leather. Popular leather conditioners include Mothers Leather Conditioner and Meguiar's Gold Class Rich Leather Cleaner and Conditioner. Such products may be purchased at your local automotive store or online.
01-29-12, 07:00 AM
#3
Driver
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: WI
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Can anyone else on the forums confirm or deny this method? I don't wanna go taking a hair dryer to my leather seats until I hear some testimonials.
Last thing I need is to damage somthing.
Please share your tips and experiences
Last thing I need is to damage somthing.
Please share your tips and experiences
02-08-12, 11:36 PM
#4
Driver
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
02-09-12, 05:39 AM
#5
Leather is a material that consists of thousands of fibers. In the tanning process these fibers and impregnated with collagens that are designed to hold them together and keep them supple. Much of the suppleness of leather comes from its moisture content. After tanning the skin is dyed and painted with the thin urethane topcoat.
When the underlying fibers lose moisture they shrink, when they regain moisture they swell. The best way to keep wrinkles to a minimum is to keep the leather properly hydrated and avoid, as much as possible, these shrinking and swelling cycles. Keeping leather hydrated is not as easy as it sounds as the urethane coating on the leather is a barrier to water penetration. Leather regains its moisture from humidity surrounding the area. A weekly wipedown with a wrung-out cotton towel will do the job in most cases.
You can help your leather handle the heat by using a sunshade when parking outdoors on hot sunny days and keeping the windows cracked slightly. The hotter the temperature in your car the lower the humidity level.
The process of using a hair dryer or heat gun has several bad things going for it. Yes, it will remove the wrinkles temporarily, by drying the leather and thus shrinking it. Unfortunately drying is what caused the wrinkles in the first place. When the leather rehydrates and swells the wrinkles will return. The heat from the dryer will shrink the surrounding leather fibers and if carried to an extreme will permanently damage the leather. Keep in mind, it is dry leather that eventually cracks and gets hard.
I'd suggest a better approach is to increase the humidity level to swell the leather. I'd try daily wipedowns with a wrung out cotton towel for a week or two and see if the leather returns to it's original condition and removes or reduces those creases. In severe cases, toss that wrung out towel under the seat for a couple hours every day. Leather absorbs most of its moisture from the back, uncoated side.
And one more thing, leather conditioners are designed for uncoated leathers. They do not penetrate the urethane topcoat of protected leather. If you use leather conditioners and think your leather is softer after use, ask yourself if you are not just feeling the "hand" of the leather once an oil based film is on the leather. Chances are the feel is only a temporary film on the topcoat and not in the leather. If there is actual softening, it is due to the hydration of the leather where the moisture content of the conditioner has evaporated and been picked up by the leather due to the increase in the surrounding humidity. Look at the molecular level of water compared to the oils in a conditioner. If a drop of water will sit on your leather indeffinitely and not be absorbed through the topcoat, the much larger molecules of a conditioner have zero chance of penetrating that topcoat. It's really all about the hydration of the leather.
When the underlying fibers lose moisture they shrink, when they regain moisture they swell. The best way to keep wrinkles to a minimum is to keep the leather properly hydrated and avoid, as much as possible, these shrinking and swelling cycles. Keeping leather hydrated is not as easy as it sounds as the urethane coating on the leather is a barrier to water penetration. Leather regains its moisture from humidity surrounding the area. A weekly wipedown with a wrung-out cotton towel will do the job in most cases.
You can help your leather handle the heat by using a sunshade when parking outdoors on hot sunny days and keeping the windows cracked slightly. The hotter the temperature in your car the lower the humidity level.
The process of using a hair dryer or heat gun has several bad things going for it. Yes, it will remove the wrinkles temporarily, by drying the leather and thus shrinking it. Unfortunately drying is what caused the wrinkles in the first place. When the leather rehydrates and swells the wrinkles will return. The heat from the dryer will shrink the surrounding leather fibers and if carried to an extreme will permanently damage the leather. Keep in mind, it is dry leather that eventually cracks and gets hard.
I'd suggest a better approach is to increase the humidity level to swell the leather. I'd try daily wipedowns with a wrung out cotton towel for a week or two and see if the leather returns to it's original condition and removes or reduces those creases. In severe cases, toss that wrung out towel under the seat for a couple hours every day. Leather absorbs most of its moisture from the back, uncoated side.
And one more thing, leather conditioners are designed for uncoated leathers. They do not penetrate the urethane topcoat of protected leather. If you use leather conditioners and think your leather is softer after use, ask yourself if you are not just feeling the "hand" of the leather once an oil based film is on the leather. Chances are the feel is only a temporary film on the topcoat and not in the leather. If there is actual softening, it is due to the hydration of the leather where the moisture content of the conditioner has evaporated and been picked up by the leather due to the increase in the surrounding humidity. Look at the molecular level of water compared to the oils in a conditioner. If a drop of water will sit on your leather indeffinitely and not be absorbed through the topcoat, the much larger molecules of a conditioner have zero chance of penetrating that topcoat. It's really all about the hydration of the leather.
Last edited by jfelbab; 02-12-12 at 05:06 AM. Reason: Corrected typo
02-11-12, 03:13 PM
#6
Driver
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When the underlying fibers lose moisture they shrink, when they regain moisture they swell. The best way to keep wrinkles to a minimum is to keep the leather properly hydrated and avoid, as much as possible, these shrinking and swelling cycles. Keeping leather hydrated is not as easy as it sounds as the urethane coating on the leather is a barrier to water penetration. Leather regains its moisture from humidity surrounding the area. A weekly wipedown with a wrung-out cotton towel will do the job in most cases.
I'd suggest a better approach is to increase the humidity level to swell the leather. I'd try daily wipedowns with a wrung out cotton towel for a week or two and see if the leather returns to it's original condition and removes or reduces those creases. In severe cases, toss that wrung out towel under the seat for a couple hours every day. Leather absorbs most of its moisture from the back, uncoated side.
And one more thing, leather conditioners are designed for uncoated leathers. They do not penetrate the urethane topcoat of protected leather. If you use leather conditioners and think your leather is softer after use, ask yourself if you are not just feeling the "hand" of the leather once an oil based film is on the leather. Chances are the feel is only a temporary film on the topcoat and not in the leather. If there is actual softening, it is due to the hydration of the leather where the moisture content of the conditioner has evaporated and been picked up by the leather due to the increase in the surrounding humidity. Look at the molecular level of water compared to the oils in a conditioner. If a drop of water will sit on your leather indeffinitely and not be absorbed through the topcoat, the much larger molecules of a conditioner have zero chance of penetrating that topcoat. It's really all about the hydration of the leather.
I'd suggest a better approach is to increase the humidity level to swell the leather. I'd try daily wipedowns with a wrung out cotton towel for a week or two and see if the leather returns to it's original condition and removes or reduces those creases. In severe cases, toss that wrung out towel under the seat for a couple hours every day. Leather absorbs most of its moisture from the back, uncoated side.
And one more thing, leather conditioners are designed for uncoated leathers. They do not penetrate the urethane topcoat of protected leather. If you use leather conditioners and think your leather is softer after use, ask yourself if you are not just feeling the "hand" of the leather once an oil based film is on the leather. Chances are the feel is only a temporary film on the topcoat and not in the leather. If there is actual softening, it is due to the hydration of the leather where the moisture content of the conditioner has evaporated and been picked up by the leather due to the increase in the surrounding humidity. Look at the molecular level of water compared to the oils in a conditioner. If a drop of water will sit on your leather indeffinitely and not be absorbed through the topcoat, the much larger molecules of a conditioner have zero chance of penetrating that topcoat. It's really all about the hydration of the leather.
02-11-12, 04:07 PM
#7
In any case, this treatment will lessen or remove the creases and will not cause hardening and further damage to the leather.
Trending Topics
02-12-12, 10:57 AM
#8
Lexus Fanatic
Leather is a material that consists of thousands of fibers. In the tanning process these fibers and impregnated with collagens that are designed to hold them together and keep them supple. Much of the suppleness of leather comes from its moisture content. After tanning the skin is dyed and painted with the thin urethane topcoat.
When the underlying fibers lose moisture they shrink, when they regain moisture they swell. The best way to keep wrinkles to a minimum is to keep the leather properly hydrated and avoid, as much as possible, these shrinking and swelling cycles. Keeping leather hydrated is not as easy as it sounds as the urethane coating on the leather is a barrier to water penetration. Leather regains its moisture from humidity surrounding the area. A weekly wipedown with a wrung-out cotton towel will do the job in most cases.
You can help your leather handle the heat by using a sunshade when parking outdoors on hot sunny days and keeping the windows cracked slightly. The hotter the temperature in your car the lower the humidity level.
The process of using a hair dryer or heat gun has several bad things going for it. Yes, it will remove the wrinkles temporarily, by drying the leather and thus shrinking it. Unfortunately drying is what caused the wrinkles in the first place. When the leather rehydrates and swells the wrinkles will return. The heat from the dryer will shrink the surrounding leather fibers and if carried to an extreme will permanently damage the leather. Keep in mind, it is dry leather that eventually cracks and gets hard.
I'd suggest a better approach is to increase the humidity level to swell the leather. I'd try daily wipedowns with a wrung out cotton towel for a week or two and see if the leather returns to it's original condition and removes or reduces those creases. In severe cases, toss that wrung out towel under the seat for a couple hours every day. Leather absorbs most of its moisture from the back, uncoated side.
And one more thing, leather conditioners are designed for uncoated leathers. They do not penetrate the urethane topcoat of protected leather. If you use leather conditioners and think your leather is softer after use, ask yourself if you are not just feeling the "hand" of the leather once an oil based film is on the leather. Chances are the feel is only a temporary film on the topcoat and not in the leather. If there is actual softening, it is due to the hydration of the leather where the moisture content of the conditioner has evaporated and been picked up by the leather due to the increase in the surrounding humidity. Look at the molecular level of water compared to the oils in a conditioner. If a drop of water will sit on your leather indeffinitely and not be absorbed through the topcoat, the much larger molecules of a conditioner have zero chance of penetrating that topcoat. It's really all about the hydration of the leather.
When the underlying fibers lose moisture they shrink, when they regain moisture they swell. The best way to keep wrinkles to a minimum is to keep the leather properly hydrated and avoid, as much as possible, these shrinking and swelling cycles. Keeping leather hydrated is not as easy as it sounds as the urethane coating on the leather is a barrier to water penetration. Leather regains its moisture from humidity surrounding the area. A weekly wipedown with a wrung-out cotton towel will do the job in most cases.
You can help your leather handle the heat by using a sunshade when parking outdoors on hot sunny days and keeping the windows cracked slightly. The hotter the temperature in your car the lower the humidity level.
The process of using a hair dryer or heat gun has several bad things going for it. Yes, it will remove the wrinkles temporarily, by drying the leather and thus shrinking it. Unfortunately drying is what caused the wrinkles in the first place. When the leather rehydrates and swells the wrinkles will return. The heat from the dryer will shrink the surrounding leather fibers and if carried to an extreme will permanently damage the leather. Keep in mind, it is dry leather that eventually cracks and gets hard.
I'd suggest a better approach is to increase the humidity level to swell the leather. I'd try daily wipedowns with a wrung out cotton towel for a week or two and see if the leather returns to it's original condition and removes or reduces those creases. In severe cases, toss that wrung out towel under the seat for a couple hours every day. Leather absorbs most of its moisture from the back, uncoated side.
And one more thing, leather conditioners are designed for uncoated leathers. They do not penetrate the urethane topcoat of protected leather. If you use leather conditioners and think your leather is softer after use, ask yourself if you are not just feeling the "hand" of the leather once an oil based film is on the leather. Chances are the feel is only a temporary film on the topcoat and not in the leather. If there is actual softening, it is due to the hydration of the leather where the moisture content of the conditioner has evaporated and been picked up by the leather due to the increase in the surrounding humidity. Look at the molecular level of water compared to the oils in a conditioner. If a drop of water will sit on your leather indeffinitely and not be absorbed through the topcoat, the much larger molecules of a conditioner have zero chance of penetrating that topcoat. It's really all about the hydration of the leather.
02-12-12, 12:06 PM
#9
If this urethane topcoat protects the leather and locks everything in then how would wiping it down with a damp cloth help it if it will not penetrate to the leather? Why do so many parts of my leather in my Lexus have a hard waxy cardboard feel to it instead of being soft an supple if the urethane coating is supposed to protect it and not let moisture in or out? I have tried a lot of products to get my my leather softer and nothing really works. I have read good things about "Leather Honey" for conditioning an rejuvenating leather but I am sure it is mostly leather without that awful urethane top coat.
The purpose of the urethane topcoat is:
1. To provide an attractive appearance. The split leather hyde under this painted topcoat is really ugly. The painted topcoat provides a uniform texture, grain pattern and color.
2. To provide a durable finish that can hold up to wear and keep looking acceptable.
3. To shield the leather from spills and to some extent, stains.
If your leather feels hard and waxy it could be due to several factors. If you have been using conditioners on it, that process would leave an oily or waxy film on the leather that can build up. Leather conditioners were designed for types of leather other than protected leather. Other types of leather can benefit from these oils and waxes. Protected leather simply does not.
The hardening of leather occurs mainly from improper hydration, typically due to heat cycles and loss of moisture, the life blood of leather.
Leather is made soft and supple in the tanning process. The only ingredient that is lost over time is moisture. Restore the moisture and you restore the original suppleness. Keep in mind I'm talking about protected leather here, the type used in 95% of our automobiles.
02-12-12, 08:44 PM
#10
Driver
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Texas
Posts: 191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So far i've been doing this for about 2 days and i already see some (not fully) improvement! Thanks so much!
Should I heat shrink the leather first, then continue with daily wipe downs for faster results?
Should I heat shrink the leather first, then continue with daily wipe downs for faster results?
02-16-12, 11:01 AM
#12
Lexus Fanatic
Water will not penetrate the urethane coating. You can prove this to yourself by putting a couple drops of water on your leather and leave it there for several minutes. Notice that it sits on the urethane topcoat. The reason the water wipe down works is that you are raising the relative humidity surrounding the leather and this will be absorbed by the leather. The leather's backside is not coated and readily absorbs moisture. That's why a wrung out cotton towel tossed under the seats for a couple hours aids in the re-hydration process. Once properly hydrated, a simple weekly wet wipe down should keep the leather soft and supple.
The purpose of the urethane topcoat is:
1. To provide an attractive appearance. The split leather hyde under this painted topcoat is really ugly. The painted topcoat provides a uniform texture, grain pattern and color.
2. To provide a durable finish that can hold up to wear and keep looking acceptable.
3. To shield the leather from spills and to some extent, stains.
If your leather feels hard and waxy it could be due to several factors. If you have been using conditioners on it, that process would leave an oily or waxy film on the leather that can build up. Leather conditioners were designed for types of leather other than protected leather. Other types of leather can benefit from these oils and waxes. Protected leather simply does not.
The hardening of leather occurs mainly from improper hydration, typically due to heat cycles and loss of moisture, the life blood of leather.
Leather is made soft and supple in the tanning process. The only ingredient that is lost over time is moisture. Restore the moisture and you restore the original suppleness. Keep in mind I'm talking about protected leather here, the type used in 95% of our automobiles.
The purpose of the urethane topcoat is:
1. To provide an attractive appearance. The split leather hyde under this painted topcoat is really ugly. The painted topcoat provides a uniform texture, grain pattern and color.
2. To provide a durable finish that can hold up to wear and keep looking acceptable.
3. To shield the leather from spills and to some extent, stains.
If your leather feels hard and waxy it could be due to several factors. If you have been using conditioners on it, that process would leave an oily or waxy film on the leather that can build up. Leather conditioners were designed for types of leather other than protected leather. Other types of leather can benefit from these oils and waxes. Protected leather simply does not.
The hardening of leather occurs mainly from improper hydration, typically due to heat cycles and loss of moisture, the life blood of leather.
Leather is made soft and supple in the tanning process. The only ingredient that is lost over time is moisture. Restore the moisture and you restore the original suppleness. Keep in mind I'm talking about protected leather here, the type used in 95% of our automobiles.
I think I would prefer a leather interior without the newer urethane coating or at least the one on my car even if it means more upkeep. I know it prevents stains/wear but when I detail older European cars with older aniline/semi aniline leather, the leather feels more supple and reacts very well to leatherique and other conditioners/restorers. It feels and looks like leather should unlike most newer interiors with the uratane coated leather that just don't have that soft supple feel and leather scent.
I will try the damp towel though as I am out of ideas.
02-16-12, 11:34 AM
#13
Driver
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: ca
Posts: 188
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
can the urethane top coat be lightly sanded away?
Such as when restoring leather with crack filler and dye.
My black leather is fading and is semi craked nothing deep or completely split but looking worn for sure.
I was thinking of using the leatherique crack filler and dye.
Such as when restoring leather with crack filler and dye.
My black leather is fading and is semi craked nothing deep or completely split but looking worn for sure.
I was thinking of using the leatherique crack filler and dye.
02-19-12, 09:59 AM
#14
can the urethane top coat be lightly sanded away?
Such as when restoring leather with crack filler and dye.
My black leather is fading and is semi craked nothing deep or completely split but looking worn for sure.
I was thinking of using the leatherique crack filler and dye.
Such as when restoring leather with crack filler and dye.
My black leather is fading and is semi craked nothing deep or completely split but looking worn for sure.
I was thinking of using the leatherique crack filler and dye.
All you can do then is have them refinished.
I'm not positive what Leatherique recommends as prep with the crack filler, but generally, when re-dyeing (i.e. painting the color coat) you would scuff lightly with something like 400 grit after cleaning/ de-greasing, to allow the new coats to stick.
Generally, you wouldn't need to sand the clear away, just scuff the areas in question to allow adhesion of what you're applying on it..
I'm sure that info is on their site though.
