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Has anyone here used Wipe New? If so, I would like to know your thoughts.
Its absolute garbage. Gimmick product. Have had to fix numerous sets of headlights of people who fell into this trap and it costs more because its a pain to remove after it fails.
Has anyone here used Wipe New? If so, I would like to know your thoughts.
I bought some to try on some pickup truck aftermarket (eBay) headlights. It worked. The headlights were clear and looked much better. Not a replacement for a good mechanical polish with quality products but better then it was before. The truck was on its way from Cali to North Dakota where it spent three weeks in snow. It came back with the headlights in the same condition as before I applied it, maybe a little better. I am going to give them another coat and see how long it lasts here in good Cali weather.
For $15.00 at Target I figured I would give it a go.
EDIT: I just read that it hardens after it dries and takes 24 hours to cure before it can be exposed to moisture. My test run on the truck lights did not get this much time. Ill give it another go when time permits.
Originally Posted by GoFast908Z
Its absolute garbage. Gimmick product. Have had to fix numerous sets of headlights of people who fell into this trap and it costs more because its a pain to remove after it fails.
What exactly are you having to remove that justified charging people more to polish their headlights (I assume that's what you are doing)? It goes on thin like an oily protectant, similar to Armor All. Its not a thick coating that would have to be sanded. Not in my experience at least.
EDIT: Perhaps my failure to let it cure did not allow whatever you have to work hard removing to cure and harden?
I bought some to try on some pickup truck aftermarket (eBay) headlights. It worked. The headlights were clear and looked much better. Not a replacement for a good mechanical polish with quality products but better then it was before. The truck was on its way from Cali to North Dakota where it spent three weeks in snow. It came back with the headlights in the same condition as before I applied it, maybe a little better. I am going to give them another coat and see how long it lasts here in good Cali weather.
For $15.00 at Target I figured I would give it a go.
EDIT: I just read that it hardens after it dries and takes 24 hours to cure before it can be exposed to moisture. My test run on the truck lights did not get this much time. Ill give it another go when time permits.
What exactly are you having to remove that justified charging people more to polish their headlights (I assume that's what you are doing)? It goes on thin like an oily protectant, similar to Armor All. Its not a thick coating that would have to be sanded. Not in my experience at least.
EDIT: Perhaps my failure to let it cure did not allow whatever you have to work hard removing to cure and harden?
The best results are obtained by sanding off old dead UV coating then polishing and applying protectant. 90%+ of people do not do this. Many have clouded up worse than how they looked before within 3 months and the 'Wipe new' is a PITA to remove and redo the lights properly.
The best results are obtained by sanding off old dead UV coating then polishing and applying protectant. 90%+ of people do not do this. Many have clouded up worse than how they looked before within 3 months and the 'Wipe new' is a PITA to remove and redo the lights properly.
I agree with you on the best method. I was just curious as to how applying a "gimmick" product like Wipe New increases the cost of headlight restoration per your previous statement. How is it "a pain"? Does it require more sanding or a special chemical? Just curious.
It seems a lot of people are skipping the sealant step, which is the most vital step in headlight detailing. Why, you might ask? Well, it's several reasons: 1. The purpose of the sealant is to protect the plastic itself from both outside elements and UV rays. 2. When you polish the headlights, you are removing a layer of either the original clear coat or the plastic itself(depending on the severity of the yellowing). If you do not reapply a coat and you continuously polish it, you're wearing it down. It's not like paint, where it is difficult to add a layer of clear UV clear coat, either. 3. It saves you the work. Using the UV Spar/paint thinner mix, you can usually get between 8 months and a 15 months of durability, depending on how often the car is driven, whether it sits outside or in a garage most of the time, and how thick you apply the coating. When the coating finally fails, it is very simple to remove. Polishing will quickly remove it and you simply reapply it. Done.
So remember, if you're going to take the time to completely polish the headlight, go the extra step and coat it with a sealer. You'll thank yourself later.
It seems a lot of people are skipping the sealant step, which is the most vital step in headlight detailing. Why, you might ask? Well, it's several reasons: 1. The purpose of the sealant is to protect the plastic itself from both outside elements and UV rays. 2. When you polish the headlights, you are removing a layer of either the original clear coat or the plastic itself(depending on the severity of the yellowing). If you do not reapply a coat and you continuously polish it, you're wearing it down. It's not like paint, where it is difficult to add a layer of clear UV clear coat, either. 3. It saves you the work. Using the UV Spar/paint thinner mix, you can usually get between 8 months and a 15 months of durability, depending on how often the car is driven, whether it sits outside or in a garage most of the time, and how thick you apply the coating. When the coating finally fails, it is very simple to remove. Polishing will quickly remove it and you simply reapply it. Done.
So remember, if you're going to take the time to completely polish the headlight, go the extra step and coat it with a sealer. You'll thank yourself later.
The unfortunate truth is that once the OEM protection wears away, you're in for a lifetime of polishing and sealing the headlights to keep them looking good.
The longest lasting form of protection that can be reapplied would be a clear coat paint. Sand the headlights, then spray clear coat onto them.
If you don't wish to repaint the headlights, you can apply any sort of traditional wax to the headlights, or you may choose to use a more durable plastic coating like CarPro DLUX which will help to protect from UV damage for longer than a traditional wax or sealant.
AWESOME thread, very informative! I've got a guy who will do both headlights for $35 and they look amazing when done. HE did my old E46 over a year ago and I'm not 100% what type of UV coating he applied afterward, when I sold the car recently, they looked the same as day 1.
I wonder if semi-permanent nano-coating would seal them?
Hey guys, I just finished with my SC400 lights this weekend...I read this thread and yes what most people are saying....the resealing process is the most crucial unless you like going on to add some wax/product to make the headlights shine again.
This is a method that I got from someone from another car related forum. Supposedly the UV protector is the same as what companies are selling for alot of money, but you can run down to home depot/hardware store to pick up everything you need for about $20-$25.
My process is basically already well known:
Wetsand-400, 800, 1000, 1500 and 2000
Buff-System one polish or equivalent with a high speed drill with small wool pad attachment
But here is the "new" part......
UV Sealer-Helmsman Spar Urethane(Indoor/Outdoor)Clear Gloss mixed with Mineral Spirits(1part urethane to 1 part mineral spirits.
After you buff the lights out with your polisher, you wipe down the headlight with denatured alcohol or isopropyl alcohol (to eliminate any compound residue.
Mix the urethane and mineral spirits in a plastic disposable cup. Remember the dilution ration- 1 part to 1 part.
Then, take a blue 'scott' shop rag and fold it up into a 1 inch x 1 inch square. Then dip the rag into the mixture and wipe it on the headlight. Dont use too much or it might run, but start at the top of the light and work side to side. It took me a few times to get my method down, so if you mess up with application, wipe it off with mineral spirits and start over.
This UV sealant dries in 10-20 mins usually and is far superior to any average detail product(paint sealant, wax etc.......)
Its like a clear cote, but you dont spray it, not as messy.
Longevity-The original "creator" of this method told me that he did a headlight restoration with this method about 2 years ago for a customer, and he said it still looks good.
This is my first "how to" thread, so any questions are welcome
tl;dr: sand down headlights 400/600/800/1000/2000 and then used clear gloss deck sealant with UV protection/mineral spirits in order to seal/protect the headlights for (hopefully) years to come. Will post updates in a year
The unfortunate truth is that once the OEM protection wears away, you're in for a lifetime of polishing and sealing the headlights to keep them looking good.
The longest lasting form of protection that can be reapplied would be a clear coat paint. Sand the headlights, then spray clear coat onto them.
If you don't wish to repaint the headlights, you can apply any sort of traditional wax to the headlights, or you may choose to use a more durable plastic coating like CarPro DLUX which will help to protect from UV damage for longer than a traditional wax or sealant.
-Zach
So...once the polishing is done, can you use a high quality, but off the shelf, spray can of clear for this "sealing" process? Would that be adequate?
So...once the polishing is done, can you use a high quality, but off the shelf, spray can of clear for this "sealing" process? Would that be adequate?
Off the shelf cc are not durable and resistant to UV, chemicals like gasoline, like a 2 part mixed cc coat. I am thinking about sanding my headlights again and spraying them with a 2K aerosol clearcoat from Spraymax or Eastwood but I don't know how it will bond with the surface or how well it will fill in sanding marks, some say it may have problems bonding to a polished smooth surface. I have tried Opti Lens and it just does not last very long on my headlights.
02-25-15, 12:07 PM
I've got a guy who will do both headlights for $35 and they look amazing when done. HE did my old E46 over a year ago and I'm not 100% what type of UV coating he applied afterward, when I sold the car recently, they looked the same as day 1. 
