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headlight restoration with 1500, 2000, PLastX

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Old 05-20-12, 11:14 PM
  #226  
TTechLexus
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Originally Posted by vlogs300
did you wet the sandpaper while rubbing it?
yes, wetsand
Old 07-06-12, 07:11 PM
  #227  
yuri.ber
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Today I finally received my Porter Cable 7424xp with some pads. I already tried to clean and polish my headlights by hand. Today I did it with a buffer, first, a polishing pad with Meguiars PlastX and then Meguiars Mirror Glaze 10 professional plastic polish. Results are spactacular. There's simply no way to get results like this by hand. After doing both headlights I did both tail lamps, again, results are amazing.
Right done, left not done
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Left done, right not done
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Last edited by yuri.ber; 07-06-12 at 07:25 PM.
Old 07-12-12, 10:13 PM
  #228  
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Originally Posted by jpcdmd
another angle, you can still make out some very light scratches but they look better overall.
Did anyone else do this and not get the same results from plasticx? My headlight is still hazy and now has that sanded down look all over? Help please
Old 07-15-12, 10:27 AM
  #229  
horent135
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What a good product to buy UV protection headlights from a store?

I always use a turtle wax polishing compound to get rid of the light scratches made by the sandpaper, then use plastic x to make it clearer.
Old 07-15-12, 10:33 AM
  #230  
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OptiCoat 2.0 has the same UV inhibitors as in your car's clear coat. Goes on easy and lasts for years.
Old 09-03-12, 11:35 AM
  #231  
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I believe that plast x is not an abrasive right? You should do the sanding then use a 3m product such as medium or fine cut which removes scratches finer than 1200 and up grit. Then apply the polish, plast x or machine polish. You can step up to 3000 grit for more detail. You should get a clearer lens with much less swirling. Dont use too much pressure when sanding. I didn't read the whole thread but that's just my .02 cents
Old 09-03-12, 02:50 PM
  #232  
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Originally Posted by 93SC300.
I believe that plast x is not an abrasive right? You should do the sanding then use a 3m product such as medium or fine cut which removes scratches finer than 1200 and up grit. Then apply the polish, plast x or machine polish. You can step up to 3000 grit for more detail. You should get a clearer lens with much less swirling. Dont use too much pressure when sanding. I didn't read the whole thread but that's just my .02 cents
PlastX is an abrasive, FWIW.
Old 10-03-12, 09:01 PM
  #233  
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I use a 1500 grit paper and give them a good going over then use a liquid ice cutting compound with buffer and a 3m #1 Pad and the a #2 Pad and they usually come out crystal clear!
Just make sure you tape the surrounding area off really well, Ive accidentally taken paint off before : |
Old 11-02-12, 01:18 AM
  #234  
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I've been meaning to try this...gotta get some practice in on the wifes Echo. lol!
Old 11-02-12, 11:54 AM
  #235  
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1 DIY + GENERAL INFORMATION = REGRETABLE EXPERIENCE.

When it comes to headlights, you have to see them and feel them to determine the true condition.
Some people erroneously seem to think water makes sand safe enough to use on your headlights.
It dosen't. It justs maskes the damage while you are using it.
I wonder how many people would use sandpaper on their eye glasses?
Probably no one who wanted to avoid damaging them.
Some headlights have damage and will need to be resurfaced using abrasives.
Most headlights don't have any damage until that first sandpaper cleaning and it's all down hill from there.
Use a non abrasive method first if you are not sure about the condition of the headlights. An acrylic lens deoxidizer has been around for years and it is the safest was to clean up a headlight without damaging the lens. It is 100% pure liquid. NO ABRASIVES what so ever.
9 times out of 10 that is all you will need to clear up your acrylic head light lens.
If that does not work, try using a polish next.
If that does not work try a rubbing compound.
both of the latter are abrasive but will cause far less damage than sandpaper.
sandpaper should be your last resort.
Old 01-20-13, 08:12 PM
  #236  
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I really need to polish out my headlights!
Old 02-03-13, 04:23 AM
  #237  
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What a great weekend DIY. I'll definitely do this once I get some time!
Old 02-03-13, 09:39 AM
  #238  
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Originally Posted by jfelbab
OptiCoat 2.0 has the same UV inhibitors as in your car's clear coat. Goes on easy and lasts for years.
I have tried Opti Coat 2.0 on my headlights and other peoples headlights, it does not really work. They may last a month or two longer at most then a sealant like Zaino until they start yellowing. There was a test done on one of the auto detailing sites using Opti Coat and some kind of Minwax Polyurethane protectant on a car sitting outside, the opti coated lights did not last very long, a few months, the Minwax lasted longer and kept the lights from yellowing longer but it too started failing at 8 or 9 months I believe. Even the opti coat on my cars paint does not seem to last very long, nowhere near lasting for years, maybe on a car parked in the garage all the time it will last a few years but not something parked mostly outside.
Old 02-03-13, 10:21 AM
  #239  
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Optimum is soon releasing a new product specifically designed as a headlight coating. Not too much out as far as the details go, but from my understanding it will be like Opti Coat 2.0 but with alot more UV protection aimed at sealing headlight and protecting them for a very long time.
Old 02-03-13, 12:42 PM
  #240  
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Originally Posted by Badmittn
1 DIY + GENERAL INFORMATION = REGRETABLE EXPERIENCE.

When it comes to headlights, you have to see them and feel them to determine the true condition.
Some people erroneously seem to think water makes sand safe enough to use on your headlights.
It dosen't. It justs maskes the damage while you are using it.
I wonder how many people would use sandpaper on their eye glasses?
Probably no one who wanted to avoid damaging them.
Some headlights have damage and will need to be resurfaced using abrasives.
Most headlights don't have any damage until that first sandpaper cleaning and it's all down hill from there.
Use a non abrasive method first if you are not sure about the condition of the headlights. An acrylic lens deoxidizer has been around for years and it is the safest was to clean up a headlight without damaging the lens. It is 100% pure liquid. NO ABRASIVES what so ever.
9 times out of 10 that is all you will need to clear up your acrylic head light lens.
If that does not work, try using a polish next.
If that does not work try a rubbing compound.
both of the latter are abrasive but will cause far less damage than sandpaper.
sandpaper should be your last resort.
It is always good to go with the least aggressive method but I have found on most polycarbonate headlights after a certain amount of time once they turn yellow, get fogged on the outside, or get crazing a polish or even compound just won't do it most of the time. I wish it did because it would save me a lot of time and aggravation. Using Plastic X, and even a compound and yellow or orange pad on my headlights made very little difference, wetsanding was the only method that really cleared them when they turned yellow. If you polish them every 5-6 months or so you can sometimes get away with not wetsanding them to get them really clear but if you wait too long they will need to be wetsanded again in most cases to get them looking very clear. Adding a wax or sealant helps a little but it will not stop them from yellowing or getting foggy after a few months. Glass headlights are nice, you don't have to deal with the yellowing and they are easy to clean when they get foggy.


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