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Old 01-20-15, 06:47 PM   #256
Phantom704
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Has anyone here used Wipe New? If so, I would like to know your thoughts.
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Old 02-25-15, 12:07 PM   #257
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Has anyone here used Wipe New? If so, I would like to know your thoughts.
Its absolute garbage. Gimmick product. Have had to fix numerous sets of headlights of people who fell into this trap and it costs more because its a pain to remove after it fails.
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Old 02-25-15, 01:38 PM   #258
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Has anyone here used Wipe New? If so, I would like to know your thoughts.
I bought some to try on some pickup truck aftermarket (eBay) headlights. It worked. The headlights were clear and looked much better. Not a replacement for a good mechanical polish with quality products but better then it was before. The truck was on its way from Cali to North Dakota where it spent three weeks in snow. It came back with the headlights in the same condition as before I applied it, maybe a little better. I am going to give them another coat and see how long it lasts here in good Cali weather.

For $15.00 at Target I figured I would give it a go.

EDIT: I just read that it hardens after it dries and takes 24 hours to cure before it can be exposed to moisture. My test run on the truck lights did not get this much time. Ill give it another go when time permits.


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Its absolute garbage. Gimmick product. Have had to fix numerous sets of headlights of people who fell into this trap and it costs more because its a pain to remove after it fails.
What exactly are you having to remove that justified charging people more to polish their headlights (I assume that's what you are doing)? It goes on thin like an oily protectant, similar to Armor All. Its not a thick coating that would have to be sanded. Not in my experience at least.

EDIT: Perhaps my failure to let it cure did not allow whatever you have to work hard removing to cure and harden?

Last edited by Debonair; 02-25-15 at 01:45 PM.
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Old 02-25-15, 01:53 PM   #259
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I bought some to try on some pickup truck aftermarket (eBay) headlights. It worked. The headlights were clear and looked much better. Not a replacement for a good mechanical polish with quality products but better then it was before. The truck was on its way from Cali to North Dakota where it spent three weeks in snow. It came back with the headlights in the same condition as before I applied it, maybe a little better. I am going to give them another coat and see how long it lasts here in good Cali weather.

For $15.00 at Target I figured I would give it a go.

EDIT: I just read that it hardens after it dries and takes 24 hours to cure before it can be exposed to moisture. My test run on the truck lights did not get this much time. Ill give it another go when time permits.




What exactly are you having to remove that justified charging people more to polish their headlights (I assume that's what you are doing)? It goes on thin like an oily protectant, similar to Armor All. Its not a thick coating that would have to be sanded. Not in my experience at least.

EDIT: Perhaps my failure to let it cure did not allow whatever you have to work hard removing to cure and harden?
The best results are obtained by sanding off old dead UV coating then polishing and applying protectant. 90%+ of people do not do this. Many have clouded up worse than how they looked before within 3 months and the 'Wipe new' is a PITA to remove and redo the lights properly.
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Old 02-25-15, 10:54 PM   #260
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The best results are obtained by sanding off old dead UV coating then polishing and applying protectant. 90%+ of people do not do this. Many have clouded up worse than how they looked before within 3 months and the 'Wipe new' is a PITA to remove and redo the lights properly.
I agree with you on the best method. I was just curious as to how applying a "gimmick" product like Wipe New increases the cost of headlight restoration per your previous statement. How is it "a pain"? Does it require more sanding or a special chemical? Just curious.
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Old 02-25-15, 11:42 PM   #261
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Yes it takes longer to compound or sand it off to repair the base material.
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Old 05-27-15, 10:42 PM   #262
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It seems a lot of people are skipping the sealant step, which is the most vital step in headlight detailing. Why, you might ask? Well, it's several reasons: 1. The purpose of the sealant is to protect the plastic itself from both outside elements and UV rays. 2. When you polish the headlights, you are removing a layer of either the original clear coat or the plastic itself(depending on the severity of the yellowing). If you do not reapply a coat and you continuously polish it, you're wearing it down. It's not like paint, where it is difficult to add a layer of clear UV clear coat, either. 3. It saves you the work. Using the UV Spar/paint thinner mix, you can usually get between 8 months and a 15 months of durability, depending on how often the car is driven, whether it sits outside or in a garage most of the time, and how thick you apply the coating. When the coating finally fails, it is very simple to remove. Polishing will quickly remove it and you simply reapply it. Done.

So remember, if you're going to take the time to completely polish the headlight, go the extra step and coat it with a sealer. You'll thank yourself later.
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Old 06-11-15, 05:30 PM   #263
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Try chemical guys JetSeal once every 6 months, so twice a year, after polishing your lights.
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Old 07-22-15, 02:29 PM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NickTee View Post
It seems a lot of people are skipping the sealant step, which is the most vital step in headlight detailing. Why, you might ask? Well, it's several reasons: 1. The purpose of the sealant is to protect the plastic itself from both outside elements and UV rays. 2. When you polish the headlights, you are removing a layer of either the original clear coat or the plastic itself(depending on the severity of the yellowing). If you do not reapply a coat and you continuously polish it, you're wearing it down. It's not like paint, where it is difficult to add a layer of clear UV clear coat, either. 3. It saves you the work. Using the UV Spar/paint thinner mix, you can usually get between 8 months and a 15 months of durability, depending on how often the car is driven, whether it sits outside or in a garage most of the time, and how thick you apply the coating. When the coating finally fails, it is very simple to remove. Polishing will quickly remove it and you simply reapply it. Done.

So remember, if you're going to take the time to completely polish the headlight, go the extra step and coat it with a sealer. You'll thank yourself later.
What sealer do you suggest?
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Old 07-22-15, 05:37 PM   #265
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What sealer do you suggest?
The unfortunate truth is that once the OEM protection wears away, you're in for a lifetime of polishing and sealing the headlights to keep them looking good.

The longest lasting form of protection that can be reapplied would be a clear coat paint. Sand the headlights, then spray clear coat onto them.

If you don't wish to repaint the headlights, you can apply any sort of traditional wax to the headlights, or you may choose to use a more durable plastic coating like CarPro DLUX which will help to protect from UV damage for longer than a traditional wax or sealant.

-Zach
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Old 12-07-15, 09:00 PM   #266
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AWESOME thread, very informative! I've got a guy who will do both headlights for $35 and they look amazing when done. HE did my old E46 over a year ago and I'm not 100% what type of UV coating he applied afterward, when I sold the car recently, they looked the same as day 1.


I wonder if semi-permanent nano-coating would seal them?
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Old 12-07-15, 09:24 PM   #267
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What sealer do you suggest?
http://www.cumberlandproductsinc.com/New-Products.asp

Look up the Barry Theal method.
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