freshmoney

Just got the car last week. 99 gs300 with 200k. Wanted to do a drain and fill instead of machine flush because of the mileage and unknown history. My bolt just spins either direction. I can get it to the point where it is tight and doesn't leak. my fluid is dark. i need it changed

is replacing the pan and filter my only option and how will my tranny react to this huge change at this point its running smooth now.

aneidiaz

If you don't want to get a full tranny flush because due to fear of the high mileage, I'd recommend at least flushing out the old fluid a few times on 15k interval. Just to try and get all the old gunk out as much as possible. Idk why a full tranny flush would be bad at any mileage. But if what your were told is that it's bad, do it the safe proof way. But still treat the car good you know. Hope your troubles are resolved bro.

freshmoney

i just found the diy from bananags for a complete using the tranny to rad lines. gonna do that. not sure what to do with the trans pan yet.

ttaylor993

The reason a full flush is a bad idea on a high-mileage car is it can cause the tranny seals to leak. Over time, especially if the tranny hasn't been maintained properly, particulates build-up in the spaces left when the seals shrink with age. If you flush these particulates out, then the seals will leak. However, if you do one or more drain and fills, then you are a lot less likely to cause a high- mileage tranny to leak.

aneidiaz

Thank you for sharing that with me bud. I'll keep that in my mind. My car just got 100k. I've done 1 tranny flush at the dealer since I've had it. Bought the car back in Feb 2012. They head cracked me tho for the service bro. Just look below.

aneidiaz

They charged me allot. But I feel only the dealer can completely flush out your tranny properly. Haven't felt any jerks or later gears at all since then. Prior to that I was feeling those random jerks between gears at times.

freshmoney

This is the main reason I wanted to do the drain and fill method. Unsure of the cars history. But I know tranny fluid hasn't been changed in a while.


They quoted you right on the parts. I paid the same down here in Florida for my atf iv

alfabit1

iTrader: (1)

When I went to do a trans drain / refill I found out my trans drain bolt was stripped by previous owner. Long story short - I ended up replacing the trans pan, I believe it was around $150 shipped from sewell (much cheaper than local dealer).

ttaylor993

Just for future reference, the easiest way to drain the tranny is thru the cooling lines going to the radiator. Loosen the line on the driver side, crank (but don't start) the car until it pumps out the desired amount of fluid. This way you don't have to worry about the tranny drain bolt at all.

freshmoney

this is what i did today i replaced all 8 qts of fluid. It came out like used motor oil. car shifts even smoother

freshmoney

hey did you do the filter in there as well or just the pan. while its down i was thinking about the filter.

GSGenesis

First off sorry to the guy that was told he had to replace the Trans pan, because they jacked you. It's not the pan that strips, it's the bolt. The bolt is so dam soft that those threads just come off like butter in your threads in the pan. Eventually if you kept twisting it, you could have literally just yanked the bolt out. How do I know this? Lol well I've done it, and went crazy until I looked at the bolt, and it was smooth, threadless lol, I got back under my car and used a dental pick veeeerrrry carefully and was able to get every single bit of threading out of the pans teeth. Now that's first encounter. Second encounter was my friends GS, EVEN WHEN I TOLD HIM NOT TO over tighten that dam bolt... What's he do, "bro I was putting the bolt back and It just kept spinning.. Didn't even act as if it were tightened," yea well.... It's teeth are gone bro... Of course it's still spinning hahaha, sucks man not fun, so just use you hands first. Smart though that they made it that way don't you agree? Rather than replacing the pan, the bolt...

And the filter you are asking about. Yea take it out. It's a mesh screen, clean it, and just put it back in, as well as all the magnets, clean those off as well. Like mentioned yea you also have to replace the crush washer for the Trans plug. (Bolt were talking about) I can't recall the specs of how many lbs to torque to so unless I can find it, I'd hate to tell you wrong and it happen to you. I'll try lookin I'm sure it's in the sticky for "DIY Trans flush though." Where all.... Your questions answers, ultimately lye.... Hence it's name, "Ultimate sticky.." Haha. Cheers.

alfabit1

iTrader: (1)

Oh I didn't get jacked, I did the work and the pan threads were definitely toast (who knows what the previous owner did there). I'm aware of that soft bolt and it too was stripped. Tried a new plug/bolt and cleaned up the threads of the pan, but they were too far gone. Might have been possible to re-tap the pan next size up but there is very little metal there to work with. I decided why worry, put on a new pan and plug.

Yes absolutely correct about the bolt though - don't over tighten!

Filter - just clean and reinstall. Same with magnets. (as said by GSGenesis)
Purchased - Pan, plug, crush washer, FIPG red (gasket), fluid.

GSGenesis

Yea if the threads did indeed strip, ehh... I'd probably just get a new pan for peace of mind, even know tapping is 100% legit. Done. It a trillion times, but if it's minimal material left to work with, yea no thanks, I'd rather know I'm going to make it to Vegas and have my money to gamble then to take the gamble with losing my oil and Trans on the way out there, LOLOL!! Probability of winning either may be just about equal, F THAT! HAHAHAHA. Glad it worked out.

salimshah

Different car (SC400) and I had the same problem. So I dropped the pan and and took to it to 2 different shops to have the bolt pulled out. My problem was that the previous owner had tightened the bolt where the good threads had gone past the threads of the pan. They tried banging the bolt from the inside far enough to get the threads to partially catch. Both gave up. I brought it back and wedged a chisel between the bolt shoulder and outside pan. It was enough to cross thread and I was able to extract it.

Once out, I tapped new threads and got a new bolt. Remember to check the length of the new bolt. It has been 5 yrs and many miles and every thing is fine. I have been looking for a replacement pan but the price does not justify replacement.

Salim