* * * USE AT YOUR OWN RISK * * *

Quote:

"I'm not a Mechanic or Auto Body Specialist. I sit in-front of my computer all day at work. That being said; If I can do this Step-By-Step DIY, so can you!" . . . JD

RECOMMENDED MATERIALS:
* Automotive Work Gloves or Disposable Gloves (Stanley HandHelpers Disposable vinyl gloves @ Home Depot)
* Safety Glasses (for Eye Protection @ Canadian Tire)
* All-purpose Funnel with Handle, 12-in (Canadian Tire)
* Oil Drain Pan + extra container-Filter Oil (Canadian Tire)
* Oil Filter Element Kit Part #:04152-YZZA3 (from DVN Parts)
* 7 qt. of API SL SAE 5W-30 (I used Royal Purple) OPTIONAL:
* Old Carpet Runner or Old Exercise Mat (for back support)
* Old Newspapers (for Oil Spill)




RECOMMENDED TOOLS:
* Jack (I used Michelin 3½-ton Speedy Lift Jack @ Canadian Tire)
* 2 x 3½-Ton Axle Stands (Walmart)
* 4 x Wheel Chocks (Walmart)
* Socket Wrench with 14mm Socket (Mastercraft @ Canadian Tire)
* Socket Wrench with 10mm Socket (Mastercraft @ Canadian Tire)
* Toyota Oil Filter Wrench 64mm/14 flute (via Ebay Motors)
OPTIONAL:
* In-Car Scissors Jack (Applies to Lowered Cars)


~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~



STEP 1
1.1) Wear appropriate "Oil Change-Attire" for this Job
1.2) Press Engine START

Make note of the ODOMETER Reading (This will help you determine your next Oil Change/Interval)




STEP 2
Hoist the vehicle by using Lift Jack. I used the In-Car Scissors Jack (applies to lowered Set-up) first to get the "3½-ton Speedy Lift Jack" underneat the car.

Note: Front/Center Jack Point





STEP 3
Place the "3½-Ton Axle Stands" to the Driver & Passenger Front/Side Jack Points




STEP 4
Place the "Wheel Chocks" to the Rear Tires




STEP 5
Place an "Old Carpet Runner" underneath the vehicle to support your back




STEP 6
Pull the hood release lever.

Remove the oil filler cap by turning it counterclockwise.




STEP 7
Prepare 14mm Socket Wrench, Funnel & Oil Drain Pan





STEP 8
Locate Oil Drain Plug/Bolt underneath vehicle

Position your "Oil Drain Pan" below the drain plug. Use 14mm socket wrench to loosen and remove drain plug/bolt. Let the oil drain into the oil reservoir. (Don't forget to wear disposable gloves & Safety Glasses in this step)

Place some old newspaper below the Oil Drain Pan as well - - - for possible oil spill




STEP 9
OIL FILTER: Prepare 10mm Socket Wrench

Locate Oil Filter Plastic Cover

Use 10mm Socket Wrench to loosen 3 bolts





STEP 10
Prepare Toyota Oil Filter Wrench & Extra container for leftover Oil from Filter Housing

Loosen Oil Filter Cap/Cover

Let it fully drain . . . (Extra Container)

 

STEP 11
This is the perfect opportunity to clean the Oil Filter Housing (Inside & Out)





STEP 12
Remove Oil Filter Housing "O-Ring"

more cleaning . . .




STEP 13
Use disposable small container for easy oil application/lubrication to Oil Filter Housing






STEP 14
Oil Filter Element Kit (04152-YZZA3)

Open Box and check all items (1xFilter Element, 1xO-Ring, 1xDrain Plug/Bolt Gasket)




STEP 15
Apply Filter Element to Housing




STEP 16
Clean then Lubricate Drain Plug/Bolt




STEP 17
Clean excess oil from Housing

More cleaning . . .

. . . at this point, you're ready to 1) re-plug the Oil Drain Plug/Bolt; then 2) put the Oil Filter Housing (with Filter Element IN) back on.



STEP 18
Add 6.5 quarts of your favorite 5W-30 Synthetic Motor Oil (I used Royal Purple)




STEP 19
a) Start the Car and Check underneath the car for the last time. Ensure no leak whatsoever.

b) Check Oil Dip Stick.




STEP 20
Ensure that the Oil Level is within pointing arrow (close to MAX Level)



Congratulations! You just completed your Lexus Oil Change

 

wow!!!!!! that's a great write-up. thanks for sharing

 

while there are already two write-ups in the 2is FAQ:

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...-your-oil.html

https://www.clublexus.com/forums/is-...50-w-pics.html

this one is certainly more comprehensive.

 

Great DIY... very detailed! bookmark approved

 

that is one of the clean and safe oil change I never have the gut to jack the car up at that center jack point just scare to break it

 

Good job, at how many miles are you guys changing your oil?

I'm doing every 7k, I use fully synthetic 5w20.

 

I just drive my car up onto a set of Rhino ramps when I do my oil changes. It's much faster than jacking up the car.

 

if you do your own oil change, does that void warranty?

also, op i noticed your from toronto as well, do you know how much a oil change at the dealership cost?

thanks

 

No, it does not void your warranty. Usually if you go in for warranty work, the dealer won't even ask about your oil change history. Dealers shouldn't give you any trouble if you tell them you perform your own. It's probably best just to be safe to retain some documentation each time you perform it - maybe the receipt from the purchase of the oil and filter, a picture of the used oil/filter next to the new stuff with a picture of a newspaper, etc - you can get creative. But the point is this shouldn't be needed in most cases.

 

Thanks for sharing this. The pictures are great!

 

Very nice work! I looked for the front, middle jack point on my RWD 350 and couldn't find one. So I just used the ramps I had anyways...didn't even use chocks. Emergency brake works just fine on newer vehicles.

 

Sorry for the bump, but locally I can only find a 65mm 14 flute oil filter wrench. Does anyone know if it will slip if it's off by that 1mm?

edit: i have a 2007 is250 RWD

 

Some people were able to get it off with the 65mm, but it does have some play. It might also get "stuck" and require a little force getting it detached from the housing after it is off.

In my case specifically, I was using a 65mm I bought from autozone and it was completely useless, it was slipping. I ended up ordering the 64mm and it was a perfect fit. I recommend finding a 64mm, it will be better.

 

Great write up! Since I have access to a lift I'll try to post some HQ pics if you guys are interested.