UGH. I am killing myself here with all this conflicting info still.

So i looked into the manual, as i was heading into the store to buy some M1, to see i NEED Type T-IV from Toyota...

What do i buy!? I need to know ASAP, as the car is going in on Saturday...

HELP! lol At this point i am safely assuming that ANY 'synthetic that is Type 4' is good? How is this as an example?
and then i come across something like this "for GM vehicles only" ?

Thanks guys for the help as i am about to kill myself sorting **** out for this car prior to its major pre winter & maintenance service!

 

You can run Mobil 1 ATF, that link you showed is not Mobil 1 ATF.

 

Okay so i will update my venture here. I wish i could have done so earlier, but CL was down?

Anyways, i spent much time reading other forums [toyota truck forums, bob is the oil guy, etc] I talked to a few good friends that are techs.

I came to the conclusion that the M1 would not be worth it in my case. The car has 108k, this will be the first fluid change. With 108k miles, there is bound to be lots of contaminants in the trans, and i did not want to risk running something completely new when OEM oil was always present. With regards to metal shavings, etc in the trans, and did not want to mess around with doing a full flush, nor the 3 week method since, i was not gonna go spend ~45$ [x3] for no reason, when OEM is just as good.

I read much contradicting info, with regards to this oil, since M1 was simply made to a dexron 3 spec with a certain additive that makes it somewhat compatible with T-IV, however not enough to bear the T-IV stamp. The only one i found to be made to T-IV spec and a synthetic was the Amsoil version.
Some stated this change made no benefit in their Toyota pickups, others stated in ran better. So i guess it is proprietary and everyone has their own take on the issue. Personally i wanted to breathe easy and get OEM.

In terms of performance, i am sure it is going to be much smoother, now since, its gonna get NEW OIL!

I did not want to risk anything nor expereince adverse affects by using this oil, and i am glad, since i got 4L [1L x4] of the Toyota stuff for cost. [Half the price of the M1]

Whats in the bag?





I will update to share how the OEM is running.

 

Thanks for the update..

I use Amsoil fluids...

 

So if you do the 3 change/fill process, do you use the same gasket/filter kit or get a new one for each time?

 

The first two drain and fills just drain it the tranny plug and front differential plug (don't worry about the gasket/filter).

On the third drain and fill, drain the tranny plug and front differential plug and then change out the gasket/filter.

 

I can changed my tranny fluid at 65 k miles and replaced the filter/gasket. I used the Castrol Import ATF fluid which says it's for import Japanese cars (Toyota, Honda, etc).

Do you think I should do the 3 flush process and switch to synthetic ATF? Or can I drive around more and wait some more miles before doing my next? I'm at 80 k miles now.

 

I would, if i had changed to synthetic. I took the lazy way out after doing much research on the topic and OEM was the best bet, so i am not in need of doing a 3 step process. But for a switch to synthetic i would, since the OEM [old] dino oil won't really mix up all too well with the fresh synthetic.

Then again i am more than positive it will be fine to drive on it, but i am the type of person that will not skimp out on repairs on a vehicle i like. Hence my reasoning.

 

Hmmm, I generally would go no more than 15K on non-synthetic ATF, but it can go a bit longer. I'd monitor the consistency of that fluid.

When you switch to synthetic ATF, the the synthetic stuff needs to go in on each step of the 3 drain and fill process. That's exactly what I did when I came back to the U.S. from Mexico last year and switched to Amsoil ATF (which was nowhere to be found in Mexico and PITA$$$ to import).

 

Why 15k ? I don't get it. The manual says nothing on intervals with this fluid/maintenance. It simply states that it should be changed as necessary, and/or after driving in extreme conditions. I know Audi/VW vehicles NEVERget this fluid changed, it is lifetime. This was the first time it was done on the car, in 108k miles...

 

No, the manual says nada and that's a shame. Over in the RX300 forum, we've talked about this for many years, given the transmission issues that people have had. Let me give you my own experience of after 15K. I would actually see a lot of sediment on the magnets, the fluid would be dark brown or burnt. Now, keep in mind my RX300 wasn't always taken to the track. For the first two years I lived down in Mexico it had a very solitary life and I pretty much followed what Lexus told me on fluids, with exceptions that became apparents as time went on and I noticed things. You can likely of course go longer in the ES300, but for me personally using Type IV, and especially given the over 100K mileage most of our vehicles now have, Type IV fluid isn't exactly making friends with the rest of the fine fluids I store in my storage area. Again, it's your call on what to do, but my personal opinion would be move to a synthetic and forget about it. One of the members over in the RX forum, TunedRX300, already has logged over 50K without changing on Amsoil ATF, and he did the same 3 drain and fill thing I was referring to.

 

I'm not aware of any automatic transmission that needs a fluid change after 15,000 miles. If the fluid is burnt at 15k miles there are other problems (or you've been racing). 50k miles shouldn't be a problem with any of the fluids discussed. If you don't drive aggressively 100k miles wouldn't be out of the question. If the fluid is dirty it needs to be changed.
On another note: I've talked to a few techs that work for Lexus and they tell me they don't change the tranny filter - they just clean it and replace the pan gasket, drain plug, and three copper gaskets. What do you guys know about this?
Thanks,
Martin

 

Funny you say that. I called up a toyota dealership and told him it was a 2001 camry. He says all you need is oil, nothing else needs to be changed... Whoa, what a retard.

I proceeded to get a new filter and gasket since, 108k miles [daily driven, NEVER raced] and the oil was brownish, if you looked at it, it still had hints of a dark red in it... Which goes back to what you said, 100k no issues.

As mentioned before, Audi/VW products NEVER require to change this fluid!

Regardless, i got a new filter and gasket. A whole 30$ for this part, aftermarket though, not OEM. And close to 5L of new fluid and she runs MINT! I noticed it is more peppier and shifts much smoother. I am glad i went with OEM fluid.

Like i said before i did oodles of research and you cannot call what a synthetic will do in the future. I saw successful results, only in cars that claimed to have logged <30k miles, but begs to ask, what about after? Premature wear?

My reasoning was simple for going OEM. Did research, found an abundance of ressources that claimed there was no difference in 'performance', second, the car is high mileage, and with time certain components wear a certain way with a certain [OEM] oil, and change that all of a sudden, what will happen? Flow will change and a chance of the shavings coupled with old OEM dino oil, blocking off the guides in the trans, and causing a mess. Another thing i factored in was down time. It would take me an afternoon to do this, and it would be just under 200$ with materials, oil [for the 3 step process], filter/gasket AND doing it myself on my cold driveway. Here i had the car back in one hour from the shop.

-Mike

 

Toyota recommends a tranny flush at 90k, no filter just a flush.

 

I just looked in my Chilton's Manual - it says to change fluid every 30k or 24 months. IMO that's overkill, but if the fluid is at all burnt I'd change it. I bought my 2000 ES a couple months ago with 95k miles on it. I just broke 100k and the tranny fluid looks clean. The fluid has never been changed. I'll be changing it within the next two weeks.
Martin