Excelent DIY.

Did you rip the door (3rd picture) during DIY or was it the notorious belt buckle puncture. You did not tape anything ... I tape the screwdrivers as well as areas around .... 3M blue painters tape is very good.

Many years ago, I was introduced to brand name "Lubriplate". I have not seen them sold in auto parts store, but wonderful stuff. If any one spots it, please let me know.

Salim

 

Lubriplate.com. It's all there, online store, local distributors etc. It's very popular for garage doors and is found in many hardware stores with the garage door parts.

 

That had been there for some time. It can be fixed, but I figure I will wait until I am ready to leave Mexico to do that.

That is a good point on the tape, when I looked again at the the manual just now, it also indicated to tape the tips of the screwdrivers. We are pretty careful in how we take things apart, so I didn't worry.

 

Thank you very, very much for the best ever discriptive step by step instructions. I needed them to realease the inner door latch moulding. Now all I need is a cheap front passenger door lock actuator. Lexus of Calgary wants $468.50 for one. I don't understand why they charge so much for their parts theyr'e no better than GM parts which are also over priced but still alot cheaper. Anyway thanks again for your help as I don't usually read instructions!
Regards; Andy.

 

here is your cheap fix from LOC site:

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums...howtopic=41219

 

Thanks Lexmex, this was just what I needed to fix my non-op driver door power window.
I will post my fix in another thread but there were two things I noticed while following
your DIY:

1. You don't have to remove the two black phillips screws on the bottom, they just
hold the inner package tray thingy. It was extra work to get it back in place too.
2. The PITA step.. If you put the screwdriver in like in my picture, it pops right out.
I initially used your method and it really was a PITA, ended stabbing my thumb with
the screwdriver.

Gary

 

Much appreciated.

There's always room for improvement on DIYs. I even add to ones that I already did and plan to when I next do some maintenance items very soon.

 

What do you call you call the lock part?

 

Not sure on which lock part you are referring to from this picture.

 

If you remember this thread, I am going to TRY do an update today, hopefully after the Dolphins vs. Jets game, I'll do it and then post photos very late tonight (I've got some other non-car projects that come first).

About two weeks ago, I had issues with the window motor, turns out it's the rails that are having issues and need to be cleaned. I've got the white lithium grease and already have done this project once taking the entire window, motor, etc. out of the door, but hope to do it again today with a camera. I've already uncovered some issues with bolt alignments that I'll point out. It will be in a separate thread.

 

LEXMEX-
Read your thread on lubricating the window mechanism.... Thanks

I have a 2002 RX300....have you had any issues that you've tackled involving a rear window being "dead" (neither buttons-driver's "master" or the window control button on the door itself- work). We've had this problem in the past with this same window and got the window to go back up-eventually- by keeping the window button that controls that window at the "master" or drivers window buttons area constantly depressed as we drove the car. After several turns,stops/starts the window did go up. I'm assuming there's a loose electrical connection to that door's motor but not sure. We tried to make sure not to put that window down but (and I don't know how/why) I came out to the garage yesterday and ALL the windows including the sunroof window- we ALL Opened?? I remember this happened once before- I think the remote triggered this somehow.....is there a possibility of a short that caused it?

Can you help me diagnose/fix this problem?
Thanks!

 

I seem to recall reading that this is an optional CBEST command, perhaps triggered by holding the unlock down longer??

 

Lexmex, thanks for the great DIY here, works just fine. The biggest problem I had was getting that PITA handle bezel off. Had it off a while back and it was a snap but took me 2 hours today and some slight bruises on my leather and panel, my fault. There is a trick and I am hoping to post it here in more detail. Also, if I can figure out how to post, I'll include a rough sketch. (very rough, not an artist, it it's accurate for 2001 RX300 and I suspect 3-4 yrs around 2001 this is good info too.)

Removing Bezel on door handle interior:
(See sketch in repair notes in papers titled, "Lexus Door Panel Removal")
The sketch shows bezel on its face down. There is an "L" shaped plastic stub facing the front of the car on the back of the bezel in the center. (On the top front in the sketch) This, when removing bezel, it must be slid backwards towards rear of car to move this stub out of the slot it locks into.
Prior to being able to slide it back towards the rear, take a small slotted screw driver and carefully slip it between the bezel face and leather so as not to pinch or cut the leather. Slide it just above the rear of the back lock **** as the top of the lock mechanism (and bottom) has a 1/16" or so nipple that slips into the hole in the side of the bezel. Gently pry the bezel off of this short nipple on top and bottom of bezel since it's installed and you are removing it. Once short nipples out of holes, pull metal door handle like you are opening it and slide the bezel towards the rear of car and pull straight out. This can be a PITA but once you see how it's make, this should make it easier.

 

It has been a long time since you showed the world how to take a door panel off but it is still good, maybe the best DIY presentation I have ever seen. Thanks, LexMex!

 

Thank you.

Incidentally, I have to take it off today to replace my window regulator. I still think that the motor is suspect, but there is a definite issue with my regulator being out of whack...so we will see today.