What happens if the Camshaft Position Sensor goes bad?
06-18-09, 10:43 AM
#1
Driver
Thread Starter
What happens if the Camshaft Position Sensor goes bad?
The cable to the right camshaft position sensor have been damage after being in contact with the belt that powers the power steering and so on. I tried to join it together again but it still got a check engine light and the code is DTC 13. See explanation below;
Must of the time the car runs fine. But sometimes it jerks like hell when the load on the engine increases, like when you tries to overtake someone. Is this because one or both of the camshaft position sensor giving a wrong signal to the ECM? Could I temporally just cut the damage cable to make sure that senor give no value at all to the ECM. Or will this make the car runs even poorly? Or could the problem be something else like a bad ignition coil?
A fast response would be very appreciated because I'm going to do a quite long road trip tomorrow. Was actually going to day but turned back home again when the jerks started.
Thanks!
/Joel
Must of the time the car runs fine. But sometimes it jerks like hell when the load on the engine increases, like when you tries to overtake someone. Is this because one or both of the camshaft position sensor giving a wrong signal to the ECM? Could I temporally just cut the damage cable to make sure that senor give no value at all to the ECM. Or will this make the car runs even poorly? Or could the problem be something else like a bad ignition coil?
A fast response would be very appreciated because I'm going to do a quite long road trip tomorrow. Was actually going to day but turned back home again when the jerks started.
Thanks!
/Joel
06-18-09, 11:17 AM
#3
Check the resistance on the sensor. On my GS430, when I replaced the timing belt, the camshaft sensor wire got sandwiched between the belt and cam pulley, and tore in two places - one of them was right where the wire joins the sensor, right on the tip. Soldered everything back together, works fine.
06-18-09, 11:28 AM
#7
Driver
Thread Starter
Would check the resistance on them if was skilled enough so I actually could access the socket. But before the wire was damage I randomly got a code 13. So I guess it was going bad even before the wire was damaged. Hopefully the one with the damaged wire because I'm going to get that one change out.
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06-18-09, 11:42 AM
#10
Driver
Thread Starter
does it do this when its missing? http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/h...t=MOV00853.flv
listen to it idle.
listen to it idle.
06-22-09, 10:24 AM
#11
LiCelsior,
That is a crazy sounding idle. I think think the tach gets it's signal from the CMP sensor Try to find a cheap replacement one, There's a few on eBay and I have 2 of them if you'd like, PM me if you'd like one.
That is a crazy sounding idle. I think think the tach gets it's signal from the CMP sensor Try to find a cheap replacement one, There's a few on eBay and I have 2 of them if you'd like, PM me if you'd like one.
06-23-09, 01:28 AM
#13
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hay guys i got code 13 as well. When i drive the car, if i let go of the gas the rpm drops back to 750-1000 as if i was in a manual instead of gradually declining. Would this be a symptom of a bad sensor?
06-26-09, 08:03 PM
#14
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Hi everyone! I have same the engine "jerks" situation on my 94 ls but it is happens every time i try to give it some! If I just go slow and don't press the pedal hard it is speed up and shifts with no problem! Also when i'm in "N" position I can press on gas as much as i want! engine rev up great! So it is only happens when I drive in it and trying to accelerate fast! I have "check engine" light on but my mechanic couldn't read the code, so i guess ECU is no longer working. It could be the reason or maybe part of the problem! I'm going to send my ecu this weekend to rebuild it! Will see if it will fix it!
06-29-09, 09:04 AM
#15
Well it never hurts to have the ECU rebuilt, because you know your working with a basically brand new unit, I have heard good things from these companies. I wouldn't ever think the ECU stopped working as it needs to work to run almost everything in your drivetrain, I'm just not sure if your mechanic knows how to read the codes, if you showed his the procedure from LexLS.com, I bet he could figure it out, even you can do it if you have about 2 inches of spare 14-16 gauge wire, even a paper clip works. Find out what the CEL is on for, then let us know, and it'll be a little easier to point your in the right direction.
