1jzgte R154 swap 1997 SC300
1jzgte R154 swap 1997 SC300
Whats up,
I have been poking around here lately and been asking alot of questions and talking bout my swap so I didnt want you guys to feel like you were just talking for no reason. Here are some pics of my progress. I gotta shout out my shop of choice REDLINE and much props to mike, one of the best engines guys I know. THanks Joe for letting me occupy a lift for a while! Mike and J-Weezy much respect to yall for putting up with me everyday!
REDLINE = Best all around shop( performance mods - oil changes) its the place to go
Located @ 19 Van Buren st, Floral Park, NY (right off Jericho turnpike about 1/2 mile from cross island)
This is going into my green 1997 sc300 automatic (2nd owner since 2001)
SWAP INFO:
1jzgte 2.5L twin turbo soarer engine w/ 5mt ecu
R154 soarer tranny
FMIC
Dual Turbo timer
Manual Boost controller
AEM wideband
Greddy BOV (using stock for setup purposes)
Walbro 255hp
Stage 2 clutch kit
Lightweight flywheel
1pc custom driveshaft
Piggyback ECU
Borla mufflers
Tein coilovers
Daizan Bushings (control arm, sway bar, steering rack)
TM engineering sway bar (F/R)
Wire harness (Dr. Tweak = Pheonixtuning.com)
Greddy SCC
Intake
I have been poking around here lately and been asking alot of questions and talking bout my swap so I didnt want you guys to feel like you were just talking for no reason. Here are some pics of my progress. I gotta shout out my shop of choice REDLINE and much props to mike, one of the best engines guys I know. THanks Joe for letting me occupy a lift for a while! Mike and J-Weezy much respect to yall for putting up with me everyday!
REDLINE = Best all around shop( performance mods - oil changes) its the place to go
Located @ 19 Van Buren st, Floral Park, NY (right off Jericho turnpike about 1/2 mile from cross island)
This is going into my green 1997 sc300 automatic (2nd owner since 2001)
SWAP INFO:
1jzgte 2.5L twin turbo soarer engine w/ 5mt ecu
R154 soarer tranny
FMIC
Dual Turbo timer
Manual Boost controller
AEM wideband
Greddy BOV (using stock for setup purposes)
Walbro 255hp
Stage 2 clutch kit
Lightweight flywheel
1pc custom driveshaft
Piggyback ECU
Borla mufflers
Tein coilovers
Daizan Bushings (control arm, sway bar, steering rack)
TM engineering sway bar (F/R)
Wire harness (Dr. Tweak = Pheonixtuning.com)
Greddy SCC
Intake
Last edited by BigGreen; Jun 19, 2009 at 12:59 PM.
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looks alright, except im a little concerned about that crank pulley as 2jzlex said. That crank is not gonna like a solid pulley on the front and will shake and rattle your bottom end apart. I would source out a stock replacement IMO unless this is for a full race application.
Also, let me know how the 1JZ hooks up with an OBDII harness. Im a little interested in finding out
Also, let me know how the 1JZ hooks up with an OBDII harness. Im a little interested in finding out
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I am not sure what you mean, whats the problem that happens with the crank pulley? I still believe that I have my oem one. Are there problems with any of the other pulleys or just the crank pulley?
Last edited by BigGreen; Jun 6, 2009 at 04:45 AM.
looks alright, except im a little concerned about that crank pulley as 2jzlex said. That crank is not gonna like a solid pulley on the front and will shake and rattle your bottom end apart. I would source out a stock replacement IMO unless this is for a full race application.
Also, let me know how the 1JZ hooks up with an OBDII harness. Im a little interested in finding out
Also, let me know how the 1JZ hooks up with an OBDII harness. Im a little interested in finding out
I will let you know how the 1jz and ob2 hooks up once i get it started.
The stock pulley is dampered, and the solid one you're using is not. I would switch back to the stock crank pulley, but you can keep the othere ones you;re using.
Also, the serpentine belt should go "alternator-tensioner-crank" not "alternator-crank-tensioner" You may need a longer belt. I don't know if it's ok to oungt it the way you did, but I just have mine routed a little differently.......
Also, the serpentine belt should go "alternator-tensioner-crank" not "alternator-crank-tensioner" You may need a longer belt. I don't know if it's ok to oungt it the way you did, but I just have mine routed a little differently.......
car is coming along real nicely , good build however i as well would HIGHLY recc removing that garbage crank pully or you will run the risk of giving yorself crankwalk amonst other problems as you go up in HP.. go back to oem or get fluid damper or ati crank pully for the oem crank is not finely balanced so your oem damper helps to absorb the variations once it reaches harmonics if not then you can run the risk of bearing failure ontop of crankwalk etc etc etc
The stock pulley is dampered, and the solid one you're using is not. I would switch back to the stock crank pulley, but you can keep the othere ones you;re using.
Also, the serpentine belt should go "alternator-tensioner-crank" not "alternator-crank-tensioner" You may need a longer belt. I don't know if it's ok to oungt it the way you did, but I just have mine routed a little differently.......
Also, the serpentine belt should go "alternator-tensioner-crank" not "alternator-crank-tensioner" You may need a longer belt. I don't know if it's ok to oungt it the way you did, but I just have mine routed a little differently.......
Ok, so I will reinstall my oem crank pulley to avoid any of the above statements.
Do you have a picture of how the serpentine belt should go anyone?
Last edited by BigGreen; Jun 6, 2009 at 06:04 AM.
Wow, good catch!
Here's how the belt is ran.
http://www.*******.com/parts/diag_AuIUWp.png
Definitely shake the solid pulley though, and install the OEM harmonic dampner.