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either way the gte swap or the na-t your going to put down enough power to break the trans! so id rather save the money and put the extra cash to the trans than to do a gte swap!
Thats exactly what i think 2! i dont get all the ppl that are so crazy about the gte..yea its a great motor...but you can make the ge basically the same as the gte far less than a swap would cost
so do you have to run race gas to go above 18psi? also...this is kind of off topic..but my AEM Wideband says that the o2 sensor needs to be installed 36 inches from the exhaust port....(and that was for high rpm engines, turbo, and supercharged engines) does that mean 36 in. from the engine port? or from the turbo? what are you guys doing?
macd is right, vvti ge ringlanding will crack before the rods give out, and that's only about 500whp.
gte swap is for those that are not looking to go apu right away, or they just want the better packaging offered by toyota; it's a much better "build as you go" platform. i know it sounds nuts because the entry cost is fairly high, but you get a lot of perks by swapping in a gte, and only have to worry about the swap itself. with na-t you have to handle everything at once and it could be troublesome if you have limited experience and funds.
macd is right, vvti ge ringlanding will crack before the rods give out, and that's only about 500whp.
gte swap is for those that are not looking to go apu right away, or they just want the better packaging offered by toyota; it's a much better "build as you go" platform. i know it sounds nuts because the entry cost is fairly high, but you get a lot of perks by swapping in a gte, and only have to worry about the swap itself. with na-t you have to handle everything at once and it could be troublesome if you have limited experience and funds.
I guess that makes sense...but from my point of view...if i were to "swap" anything..i would just buy a brand new gte block with new internals, and then get my ge head shipped out and fully re-done with all new internals as well, and get everything blueprinted and ready to go! lol and then i would be set for close to 1000hp (well...as far as the engine goes...) thats the one thing i have found so depressing about going turbo...its relatively cheap to get to the point to where the engine can handle the power...but its everything else on top of it (fuel, electronics, suspension, transmission) that makes it so freaking expensive!! lol
I guess that makes sense...but from my point of view...if i were to "swap" anything..i would just buy a brand new gte block with new internals, and then get my ge head shipped out and fully re-done with all new internals as well, and get everything blueprinted and ready to go! lol and then i would be set for close to 1000hp (well...as far as the engine goes...) thats the one thing i have found so depressing about going turbo...its relatively cheap to get to the point to where the engine can handle the power...but its everything else on top of it (fuel, electronics, suspension, transmission) that makes it so freaking expensive!! lol
Think about that for a minute, buying a new block and spending the time and labor and parts to do that. You could buy 2 JDM engine sets for that and i have seen close to the 1000 mark without even taking of a valve cover.
Think about that for a minute, buying a new block and spending the time and labor and parts to do that. You could buy 2 JDM engine sets for that and i have seen close to the 1000 mark without even taking of a valve cover.
that is true, if your not going to build your engine yourself than its def going to cost you more than a GTE will.
start with your power goal and work backwards. if your looking for a 1000HP+ your going to have to build everything in your car. if just 700hp go with used stock gte internals, a 74mm turbo or something, and a trans to match. if just 500, build ur trans, get a cheap turbo kit, and supporting fuel and enjoy your car. i can turn a 99gs300 into a 4-500hp car for under $3K if i try. but for a 1000hp its going to cost over $10K and thats if i do all the work!
so start backwards, and price things out before hand.
Just for the record im not slamin the NA-T thing im just hoping to shed more light on it , i see this stuff first hand everyday and see the down falls.
i understand where you guys are coming from...but i do all my own work...thats why i said "from my point of view"...yea it would be ridiculously expensive if you payed someone to do all that for you...and about what velella said about finding your power goal and working backwards makes alot a sense to me...and on that same note...why would you (most ppl) swap a gte unless they had crazy power goals? see where im coming from? anyways..i could get all that stuff i was talking about for under 5k in the car...soooo IMO i personally would stick with my ge...(the cheapest GTE vvti ive seen is about 3500-4500 w/out trans and i would need to rebuild it anyways + shipping + all the wiring...and that just wouldnt get me as far as the other...) but like i said..thats just my opinion..and im not slamming any gte swap ppl at all!
maybe i can only find over priced engines...and thats my prob..lol
ebay prices are always at a premium. if you know a shop and you live in socal it's probably around $2.5k.
good example though as a do it your selfer can get that in the car and running pretty cheap. And if you really want to cheap out and are crafty enough and handy with the wiring you could use a non VVTi and save big time,
ive never even seen a vvti on ebay...lol i guess i didnt look hard enough...now if its that cheap with free shipping....i see where you guys are coming from...lol
man i would go non vvti if i was putting in a gte! for the extra thousand i would save on it i would buy a used aem. than all u need is the gte wiring harness and your good to go! the jdm gte only needs cams, injectors and a single and its pretty much the exact engine as the usdm.