How to hook up amp & woofer with stock stereo?
#1
Lexus Champion
Thread Starter
How to hook up amp & woofer with stock stereo?
Does anyone have a DIY guide to hooking up a factory stereo on a 03 gs300
(Non ml/non navi) to an aftermarket amp and woofer, Help would be GREATLY apreciated. I am planning on changing the stereo to a D3 but at the moment I cant.
(Non ml/non navi) to an aftermarket amp and woofer, Help would be GREATLY apreciated. I am planning on changing the stereo to a D3 but at the moment I cant.
#2
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
Disclaimer:
I have given you information to install your audio equipment. I am not a professional, nor have I consulted a professional. You are accepting these steps to install an after market system into your vehicle. I have given all steps to the best of my knowledge. If anything should go wrong in the procedure, I will not be help accountable here on then. Consult a professional before beginning these following steps.
Avanti helped me out with this, so I learned a lot through that =]
!!What you will need!!
For sound system:
Power cable ( 10-20 ft long )
Ground wire ( 1-5 ft long. Thicker the better! )
Speaker wires ( 10-20 ft long )
Remote cable ( 10-20 ft long. Try and find one that's blue. Any size will do )
RCA Wires. ( Red and black, or Red and white. )
High - Low converter ( either best buy, or circuit city. )
Your project:
Rubber sealant.
Socket wrench set.
Razor blade.
OEM fuse adder. You can find this at a local Pep boys for a quick 10-20 dollars.
Electrical tape.
very Thin Phillips Screw Driver
Flat head screw driver
4" wall nails ( home depot )
Wire crimper
Needle nose pliers
Power reader
Make sure your OEM stereo is turned off completely.
Remove the negative, and positive terminals for your battery.
Remove your back seats.
Remove the plastic covering with needle nose pliers. Remove your stereo dash. Not the stereo console, the fury plastic covering your free float.
Open the trunk and remove your back wall covering the back seats.
Remove the plate covering the free float.
Take a 10MM socket wrench, and remove the nuts and bolts holding the free float together. Should be four nuts and bolts. Do not remove the free float just yet!
Remove head rests.
Remove the seat belts held together by bolts. ( Not sure what size you'll need for the socket wrench )
Remove the paneling on the floor of the passenger side door, and rear passenger side with the flat head screw driver.
Remove paneling on both sides on the back seats.
Take a razor blade, and make a 3-5" cut into the firewall. It is on the passenger side. It is a cylindrical rubber gasket covering your engine bay to your dash board inside your car. Run the power cable through the incision into the car. Make sure you run the power cable under the paneling, so it will not be visible.
run the remote wire ( should be blue ) to your fuse box on the passenger side of the car. Remove the cover for the fuse box. Locate the heated seats fuse, and remove it. Splice your remote wire, and connect it into your OEM fuse splitter. Attach the end to fuse placement you removed it from. ( Very critical you remember which one you removed it from, or you will have a short in your entire car wiring ) Place a second fuse in the fuse splitter.
Run the power and remote wire into your trunk. Crimp both wires roughly 1-2 inches, and place them on to your amp, but do not connect them.
Take your ground wire and attach it to the car chassis. Find a 10mm bolt on the chassis, and remove it. Take 200, or 2000 grit sand paper, and sand down the area for better negative power supply. Attach the ground wire to the bolt, and place the bolt back on firmly, and slide the ground wire into your trunk as well.
There will be a plastic housing right next to your free float. Cut the plastic covering about 5-10 inches to give you enough room for the next step. Cut the plastic covering tube in half roughly 5-10 inches. There will be a total of four wires connecting to your free float. Cut these four wires leaving 5 inches to the harness that connects to your free float. Remove the free float. Crimp the four wires roughly 2-3 inches. ( Make sure you do not mix and match these later on! )
Take your High low converter wires, and crimp them 2" and connect them accordingly to negative to negative, positive to positive. You will need two pairs of speaker wires for this step as there are two negatives, and two positives. ( only not already done so by factory. )
Place electrical tape around these wires so they do not short out on the chassis. Place the plastic tubing around the wires again with electrical tape for security. Run the speaker wire into the trunk, and crimp the ends roughly 2-5 inches as well.
Take your RCA cables, and plug them into the high low converter, and into the amp.
Connect the power, remote, ground, RCA wires into the amp. Connect your battery terminals by adding the negative first, and then the positive. You should see either a Red LED, or green LED. If you do, place the battery terminals to their proper placements.
Crimp roughly 1-2 inches off of your speaker wires for your amp. Connect wires accordingly, or you will not receive the correct bass input. Crimp the other ends 1" and connect to your amp.
Turn your key to ignition, and start your car. Turn on music, and go into the audio set up. Place all levels to 0. Check to see that your sound comes through the left side, then the right, then the front, and then the back.
Place your levels to your liking, and enjoy!!!
Before putting everything back together, make sure to place rubber sealant on the firewall so that there will not be any leaks into your car.
Attach the amp to your box with the 4" screws with the Phillips screw driver.
Did I forget anything??
I have given you information to install your audio equipment. I am not a professional, nor have I consulted a professional. You are accepting these steps to install an after market system into your vehicle. I have given all steps to the best of my knowledge. If anything should go wrong in the procedure, I will not be help accountable here on then. Consult a professional before beginning these following steps.
Avanti helped me out with this, so I learned a lot through that =]
!!What you will need!!
For sound system:
Power cable ( 10-20 ft long )
Ground wire ( 1-5 ft long. Thicker the better! )
Speaker wires ( 10-20 ft long )
Remote cable ( 10-20 ft long. Try and find one that's blue. Any size will do )
RCA Wires. ( Red and black, or Red and white. )
High - Low converter ( either best buy, or circuit city. )
Your project:
Rubber sealant.
Socket wrench set.
Razor blade.
OEM fuse adder. You can find this at a local Pep boys for a quick 10-20 dollars.
Electrical tape.
very Thin Phillips Screw Driver
Flat head screw driver
4" wall nails ( home depot )
Wire crimper
Needle nose pliers
Power reader
Make sure your OEM stereo is turned off completely.
Remove the negative, and positive terminals for your battery.
Remove your back seats.
Remove the plastic covering with needle nose pliers. Remove your stereo dash. Not the stereo console, the fury plastic covering your free float.
Open the trunk and remove your back wall covering the back seats.
Remove the plate covering the free float.
Take a 10MM socket wrench, and remove the nuts and bolts holding the free float together. Should be four nuts and bolts. Do not remove the free float just yet!
Remove head rests.
Remove the seat belts held together by bolts. ( Not sure what size you'll need for the socket wrench )
Remove the paneling on the floor of the passenger side door, and rear passenger side with the flat head screw driver.
Remove paneling on both sides on the back seats.
Take a razor blade, and make a 3-5" cut into the firewall. It is on the passenger side. It is a cylindrical rubber gasket covering your engine bay to your dash board inside your car. Run the power cable through the incision into the car. Make sure you run the power cable under the paneling, so it will not be visible.
run the remote wire ( should be blue ) to your fuse box on the passenger side of the car. Remove the cover for the fuse box. Locate the heated seats fuse, and remove it. Splice your remote wire, and connect it into your OEM fuse splitter. Attach the end to fuse placement you removed it from. ( Very critical you remember which one you removed it from, or you will have a short in your entire car wiring ) Place a second fuse in the fuse splitter.
Run the power and remote wire into your trunk. Crimp both wires roughly 1-2 inches, and place them on to your amp, but do not connect them.
Take your ground wire and attach it to the car chassis. Find a 10mm bolt on the chassis, and remove it. Take 200, or 2000 grit sand paper, and sand down the area for better negative power supply. Attach the ground wire to the bolt, and place the bolt back on firmly, and slide the ground wire into your trunk as well.
There will be a plastic housing right next to your free float. Cut the plastic covering about 5-10 inches to give you enough room for the next step. Cut the plastic covering tube in half roughly 5-10 inches. There will be a total of four wires connecting to your free float. Cut these four wires leaving 5 inches to the harness that connects to your free float. Remove the free float. Crimp the four wires roughly 2-3 inches. ( Make sure you do not mix and match these later on! )
Take your High low converter wires, and crimp them 2" and connect them accordingly to negative to negative, positive to positive. You will need two pairs of speaker wires for this step as there are two negatives, and two positives. ( only not already done so by factory. )
Place electrical tape around these wires so they do not short out on the chassis. Place the plastic tubing around the wires again with electrical tape for security. Run the speaker wire into the trunk, and crimp the ends roughly 2-5 inches as well.
Take your RCA cables, and plug them into the high low converter, and into the amp.
Connect the power, remote, ground, RCA wires into the amp. Connect your battery terminals by adding the negative first, and then the positive. You should see either a Red LED, or green LED. If you do, place the battery terminals to their proper placements.
Crimp roughly 1-2 inches off of your speaker wires for your amp. Connect wires accordingly, or you will not receive the correct bass input. Crimp the other ends 1" and connect to your amp.
Turn your key to ignition, and start your car. Turn on music, and go into the audio set up. Place all levels to 0. Check to see that your sound comes through the left side, then the right, then the front, and then the back.
Place your levels to your liking, and enjoy!!!
Before putting everything back together, make sure to place rubber sealant on the firewall so that there will not be any leaks into your car.
Attach the amp to your box with the 4" screws with the Phillips screw driver.
Did I forget anything??
Last edited by UncleRay; 01-18-08 at 08:14 PM.
#3
Lexus Test Driver
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: NY
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there are a few DIYs on installing the D3
I'll try to link you when I get a chance to do a quick search.but I rfemmeber wen i was going to put in the d3..i found a few really good write-ups
I'll try to link you when I get a chance to do a quick search.but I rfemmeber wen i was going to put in the d3..i found a few really good write-ups
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#13
Lexus Champion
iTrader: (12)
run the remote wire ( should be blue ) to your fuse box on the passenger side of the car. Remove the cover for the fuse box. Locate the heated seats fuse, and remove it. Splice your remote wire, and connect it into your OEM fuse splitter. Attach the end to fuse placement you removed it from. ( Very critical you remember which one you removed it from, or you will have a short in your entire car wiring ) Place a second fuse in the fuse splitter. -
-For that step....what if your vehicle is not equipped with heated seats?
-For that step....what if your vehicle is not equipped with heated seats?
#15
Lead Lap
iTrader: (2)
run the remote wire ( should be blue ) to your fuse box on the passenger side of the car. Remove the cover for the fuse box. Locate the heated seats fuse, and remove it. Splice your remote wire, and connect it into your OEM fuse splitter. Attach the end to fuse placement you removed it from. ( Very critical you remember which one you removed it from, or you will have a short in your entire car wiring ) Place a second fuse in the fuse splitter. -
-For that step....what if your vehicle is not equipped with heated seats?
-For that step....what if your vehicle is not equipped with heated seats?
As for tapping, it's not a good idea. It can short out your entire wiring. because the high low has to be connected to all 4 wires.