ta1972

iTrader: (1)

I'm planning to change the canister thats above the rear end.What do i need to do first to change out the canister? Do i need to drop the rear end or do i need to unbolt one of the rear axle? I need to know which side left or right axle? Also, if i have to unbolt one of the axle from the rear end,once i unbolt from the rear end,do i also need to unbolt the brake rotors and the calipers too for the axle to drop down? Please help!!!

BCP43002

This is for a 2002 GS 430:

REMOVE CHARCOAL CANISTER ASSEMBLY
(a) Disconnect the RH rear drive shaft from the differential (see below)
(b) Remove the charcoal canister assembly.
(1) Disconnect the vapor pressure sensor connector.
(2) Disconnect the VSV connector for pressure switching
valve.
(3) Disconnect the purge line hose, EVAP line hose
and air inlet line from the charcoal canister.
(4) Disconnect the vent line hose from the charcoal
canister.
Push the connector deep inside, pinch portion A,
and pull out the connector.
(5) Disconnect the air drain hose from the chanister
tank.
(6) Remove the 3 nuts and the charcoal canister assembly.

1. REMOVE REAR WHEEL
Torque: 103 N·m (1,050 kgf·cm, 76 ft·lbf)
2. REMOVE SUSPENSION MEMBER BRACE
Remove the 2 bolts and suspension member brace.
Torque: 50 N·m (510 kgf·cm, 37 ft·lbf)
3. REMOVE COTTER PIN, LOCK CAP AND LOCK NUT
(a) Remove the cotter pin and lock cap.
(b) With depressing the brake pedal, remove the nut.
Torque: 289 N·m (2,950 kgf·cm, 213 ft·lbf)
4. REMOVE DRIVE SHAFT
(a) Place matchmarks on the adjusting cam and lower suspension
arm.
(b) Remove the bolt and nut, disconnect the No.2 lower suspension
arm from the axle hub.
Torque: 110 N·m (1,120 kgf·cm, 81 ft·lbf)
(c) Remove the bolt and nut, disconnect the No.1 lower suspension
arm from the axle hub.
Torque: 75 N·m (765 kgf·cm, 55 ft·lbf)
(d) Place matchmarks on the drive shaft and side gear shaft.
NOTICE:
Do not punch to mark the matchmarks. Use paint etc.
(e) Using a 10 mm hexagon wrench, remove the 6 hexagon
bolts and 2 washers with depressing the brake pedal.
Torque: 83 N·m (850 kgf·cm, 61 ft·lbf)
HINT:
At the time of installation, apply a light coat of engine oil on the
threads of the bolts.
(f) Hold the inboard joint side of the drive shaft so that the
outboard joint side does not bend too much.
(g) Using a brass bar and hammer, lightly tap the end of the
drive shaft, disengage the axle hub and remove the drive
shaft.
NOTICE:
Be careful not to damage the boots, end cover, speed sensor
rotor of the drive shaft and oil seal of the axle hub.


How many miles do you have on the car as this should be covered by a waranty up to like 70,000 miles?

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

what's the code?
in my exp these codes usually come from topping up your gas tank after the pump shuts off the first time.

not knowing the code it's just a guess but do some serious highway driving and if it's just a flooded canister usually you can clear the canister, clear the code and not have to change anything....

TRD911

That is interesting. Why would they put it there? I never thought about the charcoal canister. I always overfill the tank and have never had a code show up.

Hm..

BP

ta1972

iTrader: (1)

I have about 96000 on my 98 gs4. I changed out the gas cap and still has the codes.

Shmee

iTrader: (3)

what codes?

Rich23

iTrader: (3)

I changed my gas cap and did a fuel injection cleaning and fuel treatment. i then resetted the ecu and the same cod cam back. the cod is po441 or 446 usually.

take a look at this, maybe it might help you:

P0446 indicates there's excessive vacuum in the fuel tank/evaporative emissions control system. In most cases, significant diagnosis is required to find the cause. There are four basic types of problems that I've seen cause this code:

1. Faulty fuel tank pressure sensor, causing the ECM to believe there's vacuum present when in actuality there is none.

2. Purge control valve stuck open, applying vacuum to tank at all times.

3. Blockage preventing the tank from properly venting. This could be due to a plugged charcoal canister or canister filter, a stuck closed canister close valve, or any sort of blockage in the evaporative system.

4. Liquid fuel blocking one of the vapor hose to the fuel tank pressure sensor, preventing the sensor from properly reading the pressure in the tank.

GShorngry

i feel like replacing the charcoal canister is common in Lexus and Toyotas

77i9

iTrader: (14)

I had the P0446 code and all I did was change out the vacuum switching valve also known as purge valve that's on the charcoal canister.

I know that it's gonna be a pita but what I suggest is to remove the vsv and check the solenoid.

GS4_Fiend

iTrader: (22)

That's correct. Any vacuum leaks on the canister itself or a bad VSV from the canister will cause this p0446 code.

cruisinvip

iTrader: (2)

DONT DO IT!
i had the same codes, it ended up being the charcoal canister solenoid, the valve on it was rusted out.
With some effort, you can reach in and replace it, drive the car around for a while.

Iparkcars

I just want to inform you all that my mechanical found a way to get the canister out without taking the axle out. By drop the suspension and support it with a dead man lift. You take the screws off of the canister for the bracket and it will come right out

smalldog

Hello. I saw your post about the evap canister and I've been trying to replace it for awhile but didn't want to remove the rear axle. Can you provide more detail on how your mechanic remove the part. I'm located in Raleigh NC

FrankT

Here is how I did it without messing with the rear hub and rear control arms, please refer to the diagram below.
I did not take pics, it was very dirty under there and dirt was landing on my face.
Once I had the car jacked up I was done in 90 minutes...

• Jack up and properly support the passenger side rear of the car.
• Remove passenger side rear wheel.
• Remove the rear suspension brace, both sides.
• Removed the 3 nuts that hold the canister and disconnecting 3 hoses and the 2 connectors.
• Remove the charcoal canister mounting bracket, 2 bolts on the right side of the assembly.
• Remove the 6 10mm allen head bolts that hold the RH rear drive shaft to the differential. Mark the alignment of the axle to the differential.
• Carefully push the axle outward and drop it down to the side.
• Remove the rubber band type hangers that supports the exhaust pipes. this will give you enough room to move the drive shaft a few more inches out of the way.
• Remove the charcoal canister assembly. It might take you a few minutes to fit it through the opening.
• Replacing the new assembly is reverse of removal, including removing the mounting bracket on the right side of the assembly.
• Torque the drive shaft bolts to 61 ft/lbs in a cross pattern

vsop4me

Just did the replacement this weekend, took me about 2 hours. This job tested my patience more than skills following the process described above. The below is where I had the most difficulty.

1. Removing and replacing the 6 bolts attaching rear axle to the differential. Removing it took a bit of force...ie using my legs with breaker bar. Putting it back on, I had the most difficult time aligning the holes to put the bolts back on due to the trans being in Park AND the parking brakes applied. I realized this only after sometime getting frustrated and went back into the car and released the parking break to allow the rotation - probably a rookie mistake . Once released, aligned it, hand turned a couple screws then went back in and applied the brakes again for safety reasons.
2. Regarding the mufflers, after multiple times trying to remove with just removing some of the rubber bands holding the mufflers, I had to remove all of them. The two rubbers band right at the tail pipe on each side AND the two rubber things holding the pipes just under the suspension. Even with that, I had to employ some elbow grease AND breaker bar wedging to allow axle to be swung out of the way.
3. Regarding the axle, I first tried moving it to the right side (towards the front of the car) but ultimately it worked only after moving the axle to the left and forcing it a bit between the muffler pipes and suspension.
4. Tetris, definitely took me a few minutes to work the damn box out, rotating and turning whatever way seems best and finally came out. When I first looked at the job and did some rough measurements of the box and the space between the differential, suspension and axle, I really had my doubts how the canister was going to fit but the part that I could see was the space above to allow for rotation of the box just enough, I mean barely enough to get it in and out.

That was my experience at least in case someone encounters similar challenges. I had to stopped a few times, got out under the car, walked away for a breather and then went back at it.