i just finished the install on a jl 8w0 yesterday. I couldnt tell you how it sounded before, because my sub was already blown...but it does sound good. A lot better option then buying another crappy ML from the dealer.

 

The JL W0 is rated for much higher wattage than the ML factory sub. When you run it on a factory amp it will under perform (not be as loud at the same volume) because the factory amp is blowing too little power for it. Look at the differences in magnet size, the bigger the magnet the more power you're gonna need to move the coils. The ML sub is almost a joke and a half to ba called a sub, its magnet is patheticly tiny. The JL sub will really bump bump with that magnet but on the factory sub, its just sitting there barely moving compared to what it could do for you under power levels it really requires and likes.

Also, dont forget to get the ML sub tested for impedience (ohms). Running a different or wrong impedience sub on the factory sub could cause the amp to fail in short order.

For a ML replacement sub, look for a lower wattage paper cone sub. Not hard hitting aftermarket competition subs needing alot of power.

 

Can you not just add an additional amp to that JL sub? Wouldn't that make it hit much harder?

 

Hey guys, pioneer came out with a new lo-mount sub that works in enclosed and free-air solutions. Pioneer always came to rescue. TS-SW841D Premier Subwoofer, I have no installed it yet but I hope it will work better then the stock ML. It should also work better then the W0 JL because the JL is not free air.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pn...969765,00.html

 

Folks

The Levinson sub/driver/woofer has very specific characteristics. This very high end integrated audio system is tuned to these characteristics as a system. This tuning is difficult, costly, and has yet to be surpassed in an automobile with the possible exception of the LS460.

Just plugging in a larger or simply a different woofer will at best sound as good and most likely degrade the response of the overall system. Which would be a terrible shame indeed.

Forget about the wattage of the driver. It does not matter in this case. The only spec that you are able to glean from the average driver spec sheet is the impedance (ohms). If you HAVE to replace the driver with a non-Levinson at least match the impedance. The characteristics of real importance are called the Theil-Small parameters ( http://www.thespeakerstore.com/gloss...ndingspecs.htm ).

My advice is if you don't feel like getting burned at a Lexus dealership, check out a used driver at a car parts lot from another LS.

I have been a "high end" audio nut for twenty years. Levinson makes some of the best audio gear ever created at any price point. They have been doing nothing but extreme high end audio components for decades. I think you can trust in them to deliver the best audio available at any specified (by Lexus) volume. I know I do.

Good luck and I hope I have been helpful.

 

If it is indeed Ohm compatible I will be making the change along with doing the brakes....can u imagine, the Levinson is a nice system but throw in a little bump and Jay Z will just come alive!

 

As much as I aggree with your statement...I still find it lacking in the LOW end section..specially when it comes to upper bass region like 40-50Hz. I also find that there is not enough SPL/Pressure to be a more "realistic" (ala concert style) music experience... I did replace the subwoofer with a larger sealed unit and amplified it and now the system sounds so much more realistic even in lower volumes.

Call me deaf or non-audiophile...but for me to enjoy the music and really be 'moved' by it..it has to play at a reasonably loud volume (about 100-110 dbs) naturally and not a lot of distortion.

Mike

 

I agree, especially with the fact that the system is designed specifically for the LS and that one must be careful when replacing/upgrading components in order to avoid blowing the whole system, or spending money for no aural benefit. But, I disagree with the spirit of your post which implies the sound cannot be improved.

The Levinson system has recieved very high marks by audio reviews in TAS, Sterophile, and many other high-end audio publications. This is why I was so excited to buy an LS with the ML system and eagerly threw in 6 CDs us audiophiles LOVE to listen to like Buena Vista Social Club and 5 other assorted Chesky CDs (known for their commitment to audio excellence.

The ML system in the LS is very good when compared to other stock car stereos, but let's not forget that that same design is also forced to take COST into account and probably cut plenty of corners. This is evidenced by the fact that I was completely underwhelmed and not a little dissapointed by the lack of bass punch and accuracy as well as a very "shouty" quality to the speakers at high volume.

If I really wanted to make the system sing I would go through it replacing amps and speakers and especially that anemic sub. someone mentioned that the sub amp should be replaced along with the sub and I'll bet that would make a world of difference.

Let's also not forget that Mark Levinson no longer has anything to do with the company that bears his name, and from what I heard in the LS is only a little bit better than the king of all audio rip offs, Bose.

 

"This is why I was so excited to buy an LS with the ML system and eagerly threw in 6 CDs us audiophiles LOVE to listen to like Buena Vista Social Club and 5 other assorted Chesky CDs (known for their commitment to audio excellence."

I'm curious which CDs you're referring to. Would you mind listing artist and album?

Thanks.

 

I have already blown all of my speakers, tweeters, and sub in my LS. The mark levension system is total garbage. ( I listen to rap, hiphop, breakbeats, vocal trance, and dance) I had the lexus pioneer system: speakers, tweeters, and sub in my sc300 and they never blew out and sounded perfect. I plan on upgrading my whole sound system with MB Quarts, JL, and alpine. I know this will satisfy my audio appetite.

 

anyone have the instruction for a 01 non UL instead. My sub also blown but the instructions provided didn't seem to be the same on a non UL. I tried to look for the 3rd nut in the rear arm rest but can't be located. Thks in advance.

 

good idea....

 

Fold down the arm rest...the plastic "trim" around the trunk access door pulls straight toward you (two clips near the top). The 3rd bolt is behind it.

 

Thanks for this post as it got me pretty close to removing the rear seat back. I have now removed all three bolts, but still can't get the rear seat back off. I can pull towards me and the entire rear seat back moves, but something is still holding it from the bottom.

Do I need to remove the bottom first? If so how is that done? Thanks.

 

yes the bottom comes out first...it is really easy...pulls straight up from the front of the seat on each side (one clip on each side in the front)...just pull straight up and the seat will go up and slide forward...there are a few bolts on the bottom side of the seat back and then the back will be free